On DD’s lil noggin. she actually kept stealing it and trying to ‘crochet’ it herself. mostly it got stabbed with a hook. cute, regardless

I didn’t write up a pattern, but I can give you a nice recipe for what I did! I suppose I call it First Snow Beanie.

I used an F hook, and some mystery unlabeled yarn. It’s baby/sport weight, and I’m guessing bernat. It’s acrylic, I can tell that much. I used a bit tighter tension than I usually do, as well. I made it for my 2 yr old daughter, and it’s nice and snug. And covers her ears well.

I started out with 10 dc’s into a magic loop, then joined.

I ch’d 1 at the start of each round, and worked my first st into the same st as join. It makes for a cleaner start.

I worked in hdc from there, and increased by 10 each round. So, first round 2hdc in each st, then every other st on next round, and so on. I worked until I had 90 sts total. You’ll need to get to a multiple of 6, whatever size you’ll be making.

After you get to the size you want, you’ll switch to post ribbing, but hdc post st ribbing. I started with 2 bphdc, then 1 fphdc. So, a 2×1 rib pattern. I just worked in that until I got the length I wanted!

It’s so cute! And she lets me keep putting it on her. Which is a good sign…means I shouldn’t have to add ties to make it stay on, but knock on wood there. I’d like to make an adult one for her daddy, since he’s out in the cold during the day poor daddy! I already made him one hat but it never hurts to have more.

I’m working on some mittens for her to match. I’ve got one made so far, but I wrote down exactly what I did on these.

The ribbing got a little slack, but I keep getting distracted whilst making it..not to mention more toddler ‘crochet’ work was put into it. hehe. But that does seem to effect the ribbing, which doesn’t look as nice as the hat. I’ll have to see how the second mitten turns out. I’ll post the mitten pattern after I get the second one done and make sure there are no errors in it.

The hat off her head. It actually cinches up quite more than I’d thought it would. Yay! I may make one for myself, if I can convince myself to wear tight hats. haha.

Hope you enjoy! More posts to come as I get my craft mode set to ON for the gift giving season.

But seriously, it has been a hectic summer. New boss, lost our asst mgr, having to work a lot more, yada yada. Leaves little time for blogging and crafting. Serious bummer.

I am starting to crochet and knit more though, with a slight chill in the night air lately. I’m working on a pair of mittens for DD that I’ll put a pattern up for as soon as I finish the second one…the joys of second mitten syndrome.

I want to get more into pattern writing, and for the love of god put some things back into my etsy! AHH it’s been barren for so long! :’(

This is an emotional post. Time for a picture.

Look! Something nicer than my frazzled typing. I think it rather looks like dragon scales. And it’s far too warm to convince DD to model one for me. Soon enough, though. I rather like the way they turned out, so I may end up making myself a pair! haha.

They’re done in tunisian, and some slip stitches for the bottom and thumb. I really really REALLY like slip stitch crochet. It’ll be making an appearance in future patterns. Probably a lot.

I also recently got into knooking. For those unfamiliar with that, it’s using a modded crochet hook to knit! Gotta love crochet! I will probably do some patterns with that as well. For those looking to get into it I’d recommend joining the ravelry group knooking.  There’s a webpage out there somewhere, but I especially like the group. Same goes for slip stitching-there’s a fantastic slip stitch crochet group on ravelry. With some majorly skilled crocheters in it. I really recommend checking them out.

I will try to get better about updating my blog. Sorry for the few posts this summer!

I’ve only seen one pattern for tunisian longies/shorties, so I’ve been wanting to do this for a while I’m pretty excited about it! I’ll be making a second pair for DD that are cotton, so she can have some comfy summer shorts too.

These are pretty trim, but I’ve put in plenty of short rows for cloth booties.(A note on that-if you do 2 colors like I did, you will have A LOT of ends to weave in just to warn you.. ) It’s worked top down, in the round using a double ended hook. It’s my favorite method for tunisian in the round and there are some good videos of it on youtube if you need. You’ll need 2 working skeins of yarn, hence why I used 2 different colors..easy way to make it interesting,albeit a bit of a pain for weaving in ends

Baby booty! Without a cloth dipe, so a lil saggy.

Size is for a toddler, about a 2T. and I’ll have to find my notes on rise and such. Waist is about 19 in, rise 22 in give or take. Feel free to add more or take away in the short rows as you need.

Materials:

Size H double ended hook. I used one that was 10 in long, and it worked well for me

WW wool yarn in 2 skeins-I used Patons, which is also on the lighter side of worsted, just to let you know. Note-wordpress is apparently really special when it comes to changing font, and I wrote the pattern notes on my DH’s computer, which does not have word on it, and when I copied and pasted it made my font tiny and apparently impossible to change without knowledge of html. sigh.

TSS-Tunisian Simple Stitch

Increase-Work an increase by inserting hook into next horizontal bar after the designated number of TSS sts (ie insert into next horizontal bar after the 10th tss st)

ch 60 with first skein, sl st into back hump of first ch to join into round.

Work a basic foundation row to get you set up (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQfp88HI2WY for a great video on how to start and work in tunisian in the round)

Rounds 1-5: TSS around

Round 6: Increase every 10th st around. 66 sts

Round 7: Work even around, placing (if you haven’t done so already) one stitch marker at beginning (I’ll designate this marker 1), and one stitch marker halfway(I’ll designate this marker 2). Half of your sts will be the front side, half will be the back side, and the markers help this out

Next you’ll start working in some short rows on the back side as you work

Round 8: Work even to 10 sts before end (1st marker), work return pass to 10 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Round 9: Work even to 9 sts before end (1st marker), work return pass to 9 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Rounds 10-12: Work even around

Rounds 13-14: Repeat rounds 8-9

Round 15: Work even to 8 sts before 1st marker,return pass to 8 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Round 16: Work even to 7 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 7 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end

Rounds 17-21: Work even

Round 22: This row will have a short row section on the back side- Work even to 6 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 6 sts before 2nd marker,  work forward pass to 4 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 4 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to 1 st before 1st marker, return pass to 1 st before 2nd marker, forward pass to end, return pass to 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Rounds 23-24: Work even

Gusset:

I used an extra bit of yarn, so I didn’t have to break my working yarn. I also got lazy and did it in one color haha! It’s hard to spot while she’s wearing them so I don’t mind, and neither does she

Find middlemost 11 sts on the backside. With rs facing, join yarn to first of 11 sts and work a tss forward pass. Return pass as normal.

Row 1: tss across. return pass 11 sts

Row 2: Tss to last 2 sts, tss2tog, return pass to last 2 sts (3 loops on hook), yo and pull thru all 3 loops on hook. 9 sts

Rows 3-4: repeat row 1

Repeat rows 1-4 once more

Next row: tss across, do not return pass!

Find middlemost 6 sts on front sides

Graft the gusset to these 6 sts using your favorite method-I used kitchener actually! The 6 sts are still ‘live’ so I worked it just the same as knit sts. knitty.com has a good photo tutorial if you are unfamiliar with it.

Legs:

If you did not break your yarn, this first leg is slightly easier. This should also be the right leg. Grab up your yarn again, work a forward pass (13 sts) to gusset, pick up 10 sts along side of gusset, forward pass to end (11 sts) You should have 34 sts.

Rounds 1-9: work even around.

Round 10: work a bind off row. Note-if not adding a trim or ribbing, I’d recommend binding off in tps (tunisian purl st) to help control curling.

Attach yarn to other leg at marker, and work as for right leg.

Work whatever typing of ribbing you like at the top of shorties-I picked up sts and worked 1×1 ribbing in knitting for 6 rows. You could do slip stitch ribbing in crochet, fpdc/bpdc ribbing, sc ribbing, or a drawstring of some kind. All up to you!

Make the legs longer and turn these into longies! Make them yours!

I’ll post more pics after I try out a cotton pair too. enjoy! And please buzz me with any questions you may have.

I am, however, working on a pair of tunisian longies/shorties for my daughter (probably will be shorties since it’s quickly going to be too hot for longies) and I want to post the pattern when I’m done. I’ve taken my time with it so I hope it will turn out nicely. I also chose to do 2 colors which has slowed me down further haha but oh well.

Take care!

She thought it was great that I wanted to take a picture of her in her hat, so she ran away squealing with laughter. I’ll have to snag a pic of her in it later!

I used Little Lehi cotton/acrylic yarn. It’s nice and soft and I love the color which is really hard to capture in a picture It’s a lovely summer yellow. Size is for toddler.

DK weight cotton yarn

H hook

Make magic loop, 10 sc into loop.

Round 1: 2 sc in each st around. 20 sts

Round 2: sc in each st around.

Round 3: [sc in first st, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 30 sts

Round 4: sc in each st around.

Round 5: [sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 40 sts

Round 6: sc in each st around

Round 7: [sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 50 sts

Round 8: sc in each st around.

Round 9: [sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 60 sts

Rounds 10-14: sc in each st around

Round 15: sl st in next st, ch 2 (counts as first dc) dc in each st around. Join to top of ch 2. 60 dc

Rounds 16-19 :ch 2, fpdc around each dc, join to top of ch 2.

Round 20: do not ch, sc in each st around.

Round 21: [sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 70 sts

Round 22: sc in each st around.

Round 23: [sc in first 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 80 sts

Round 24: sc in each st around

Round 25: [sc in first 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 90 sts

Round 26: sc in each st around

Round 27: [sc in first 8 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 100 sts

Round 28: sc in each st around

Round 29: [sc in first 9 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 110 sts

Round 30: sc in each st around.

Sl st in next st. Break yarn and fasten off.

I may add some ties to it if it becomes..necessary. Usually DD is pretty good about wearing hats, but you know.

Sorry, had to be over her outfit. Still pretty chilly here!

I think next time I’ll make the halter strap a bit shorter, but it came out rather cute. I may make it a bit wider too, as this is definitely more apron style. But it’s very cute!

WW Acrylic yarn-I used Patons Canadia, and didn’t use the whole skein. Maybe 3 oz ish.

I hook

If you want to adjust size, just bear in mind that the ripple pattern is a 10 + 1 repeat, and straps are really easy to adjust. As the pattern sits, it would probably fit 12-24 months ish. My dd is a petite gal, and has about a 20″ chest. so she’s still in her 18 mo clothes although she’s almost 22 mo!

CH 51.

Row 1: Sl st in back loop only in 2^nd ch from hook and each ch across.

Row 2: (rs) ch 1, turn. Sl st in front loop only in each st across.

Row 3: (ws) ch 1, turn. Sl st in back loop only in each st across.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 six more times. Break yarn and fasten off.

Bottom half

Ch 53

Row 1: dc in 4^th ch from hook in the back hump, dc in next 3 chs, [skip 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, ch 2, dc in next 4 ch] repeat [ ] across to last 6 ch, skip 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch, dc in last ch.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc) skip first st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, [skip next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, {dc, ch 2, dc} in next ch-2 space, dc in next 3 sts] repeat [ ] across to last 6 sts, skip 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch.

Repeat row 2 seven times

Next row: ch 1, turn. Sl st in back loop only of each st across, putting one sl st in ch-2 spaces. 46 sl sts.

Next row: ch 1, turn. Sl st in front loops only across.

Repeat last row 15 or until top piece measures about 2 1/2 in

Do not turn. Back straps are worked next.

Ch 1, sl st 3 times down side of work.

Ch 1, turn. Sl st in front loops only in 3 sts.

Repeat this row 50 times. Fasten off one strap made.

Attach yarn to opposite side, repeat for other strap.

Halter strap: ch 47

Dc in back hump of 3^rd ch from hook and each ch down. Break yarn leaving tail for sewing.

Fold top in half, and sew one end of strap slightly to one side of center.

Sew buttons on (one is purely decorative)

I really like the slip stitched top half. Looks so nice and neat

Weave in loose ends

Thus a super cushy soaker was born! And it is a poofy beastie, as I usually am over zealous about DD’s naptime/nightime cloth diapers. Too many leaks..

Mine still needs to lanolized, but I’m pretty happy about it! Next I’m going to make one not quite so big so it can cover trimmer diapers a little more nicely.

And of course I’m sharing the pattern!

Super Bum Soaker

Size L-XL Waist is about 19-20″, rise about 19″

Materials:

WW wool yarn-I used Paton’s Classic, along with some unlabeled yarn for the waistband

H Hook-regular crochet hook

KHook-Must be Tunisian hook

TKS-Tunisian knit stitch

INC-Increase by inserting hook into very next horizontal bar (right before next vertical bar to be worked) yo & pull up a loop.

With h hook, ch 8, sc in 2^nd ch from loop and each across. 7 sts

Row 1: ch 1, turn. Sc in back loop only.

Repeat row 1 30 more times. Back waistband made

Switch to K hook.

Pick up 33 sts along waistband. Work return pass. 34 sts.

Pic of work after row 2..ish.

Row 1: tks in first st, [inc, tks in next 2 sts] repeat [] across, tks in last 2 sts. Work return pass. 50 sts

Rows 2-4: tks across. Work return pass.

Row 5: tks to last 5 sts, then work a return pass back to the first 5 sts, tks to end, work a return pass all the way back. Short row section made. See following pics:

Coming up on end of short on the forward pass to the end. See the jump there? We’ll get rid of it and any holes by doing the following:

Insert hook into both the end stitch and the top of the next horizontal bar, yo & pull up a loop.

See? Pulls it nice and tight together. When you return pass, you do nothing unusual. But, when working the next forward pass, you’ll want to cover up the gap made at the other end, doing a similar thing:

Gap. No good! We’ll do about the same thing here. Insert your hook into the horizontal bar below, then into the next stitch, yo & pull up a loop.

Pulls together nicely! You can skip this if it’s too confusing, or if you aren’t bothered by the gaps.

Row 6-11: tks across, work return pass.

Row 12: repeat row 5

Rows 13-14: tks across, work return pass.

Row 15: tks to last 2 sts, tks2tog, return pass to last 2 sts(3 loops on hook), yo & pull through last 2 sts (pull through all 3 loops). 48 sts

Row 16: tks across, work return pass.

Row 17: repeat row 15. 46 sts

Row 18: work another short row, going to last 3 sts of either side.

R0w 19: repeat row 15. 44 sts

Row 20: tks across, work return pass.

Rows 21-28: repeat row 15. 28 sts

Rows 29-36: tks across, work return pass.

Row 37: inc, tks to last st, inc. 30 sts

Rows 38-42 : repeat row 37-should end with 40 sts

Rows 43-55: tks across, work return pass. 40 sts

Row 56: tks in first 7 sts, [tks2tog, tks in next 6 sts] repeat [] across to last 6 sts, tks in next 4, tks2tog in last 2 sts. Return pass to last 2 sts(3 loops on hook), yo & pull through last 2 sts (all 3 loops). 34 sts

Row 57: tks across, work return pass.

Bind off in tks.

Switch to H hook, Attach yarn to right side of top of work (rs facing). If you don’t switch to the opposite side, you’ll get a weird edge, more so if you work a second color in the waistband as I did.

Ch 8, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and each down, sl st in next 2 sts

Turn, skip sl sts, sc in back loops only.

Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loops only, sl st in next 2 sts

Repeat this across the top to make front of waistband.

Sorry that it’s fairly dark. This one was taken at night! But here’s the cover lying flat.

Fold cover and line up sides

All sewn up!

Sew up sides using favorite method-I use basically a mattress stitch.

Cuffs:

With H hook, join yarn to leg opening.

Ch 11, sc in 2^nd ch from hook and each ch down, sl st in next 2 sts. 10 sts

Skip 2 sl sts, sc in back loops only, ch 1 and turn.

Sc in back loops only, sl st in next 2 sts.

Work in this fashion around leg opening, then sl st sides together.

Repeat for other leg.

Or, do a simple crochet leg opening, or a knitted rib, or whatever you prefer.

Lanolize and put on your lil one!

Diapers are pretty pricey though, and since I love being a diy-er, I wanted to try making some pocket diapers.  With printer out of ink though, I had to try and draft a pattern myself, and well..I’m certainly not the best seamstress yet so my edges are kinda funky. haha! But, as long as they function I could care less.

All I did was measure my DD, waist and rise (rise is from belly button down between legs and up the back) and then doodle on some newspaper until I got a shape I liked. Referenced a few of her cloth diapers for it, and left a 1/4-1/2 seam allowance. I used some fleece for  the outer, and t-shirt for the inner.

I especially like how pointy my edges seem to have gotten…dang! haha. So have no fear if you can’t sew. Neither can I, and I got it just fine! I just cut my two pieces (make sure to put the sides you want facing out pointed inward when you sew) and I pinned around, making sure to leave about 2″ open on the back side so you can stuff your insert into it.

I may topstitch around these too, but eh they seem alright just with that sewing and turning. Did I mention I’m lazy?

I used 1/4″ elastic on the legs. I tacked down one end with a zigzag, then streeeetched it tight and sewed down, tacking it down well on the other end. I did not make them a casing (lazy). We’ll see if I need to add that as well…

I am just using some of DD’s prefolds as inserts, as they fit quite nicely actually! (she’s a toddler of 19 months atm) just folded into thirds and stuffed in there.

We’ll put these to the test (I’ve made 2 so far) to see how they hold up. Also what the bf’s verdict is on them. I’m going to get some of the disposable & flushable liners for bf’s sake too.

I did not add any snaps or velcro btw… 1)couldn’t find the damn velcro and 2) I can’t find a snap press like I want anywhere near me. I want to add some snaps once I can get a press. Probably going to be from ebay.

I’ll update on how these are working out.

UPDATE: Huzzah! I tried one out on her last night for bedtime..figured that’d be a good stress test. I can fit 2 of her prefolds into one, and then put one of her covers over the whole thing. NO LEAKS!! Though she managed to take the whole thing off first thing upon waking this morning. Velcro is quickly a no go for me. So yeah!! I’ll be making more of these and working on some longies for her to cover her booty. hehe.

Chunk Slouch Hat

P/Q Hook

L Hook

Super Chunk Yarn-I used about a skein of Lion Brand Hometown

6 dc into magic loop, join to first dc.

Round 1: Ch 2, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each st around. Join to ch 2. 12 sts

Round 2: Ch 2, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around. 18 sts

Round 3: Ch 2, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around. 24 sts

Round 4: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around. 30 sts

Round 5: Ch 2, dc around. 30 sts

Round 6: Switch to L hook, ch 1, sc in back loops only around.

Round 7: Ch 1, sc in back humps around. See pics below.

Looking at brim. Working in the back humps causes this sideways ‘stocknette’ pattern to emerge.

When you turn your work to look at the back, there is that ‘bump’ sitting behind the 2 loops you normally work into.

Stick your hook into this bump. This is where you place your sc sts to get that look on the brim.

Work your sc in each bump around. See? Not too hard. Just different

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in back humps around.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

This is an easy one to whip up, and I plan on making a couple more like it! Some for baby girl too. I think she needs one in a nice yellow color..

I’m going to add a flower to mine, I’m just lazy and haven’t sewn it on yet. Pics are lousy until then too, as I finished this up at night.

Look at that orange!! Bout the same color as my funky wallpaper in my kitchen. I just got new dishes the same color. hehe.

J hook

F hook

WW yarn-I used red heart in ‘carrot’ if you’re wondering.

Working in a spiral, so mark beginning of rounds if you’d like. No joining, just keep on keepin on!

10 dc into magic loop-pull tight to close.

Round 1: 2 dc in each st. 20 sts

Round 2: [1 dc in first st, 2 dc in next st] around. 30 sts

Round 3: [1 dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 40 sts

Round 4: [1 dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 50 sts

Round 5: [1 dc in first 9 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 55 sts

Work even on these stitches until length desired. My hat’s pretty slouchy.. I think I did 6 rows. Yes, I did. Sorry, had to count.

Then switch to F hook, sl st in next st, and then work some ribbing around hat!

Ch 7, turn, hdc in 3^rd st from hook and each down, sl st in next 2 sts on hat.

Row 1: Turn, skip 2 sl sts and hdc in back loop only.

Row 2: ch 2, turn and hdc in back loop only back down, sl st in next 2 sts along hat.

Repeat these 2 rows around hat, then either sl st sides together or sew together. (see my circe cardi pattern for more on ribbing worked this way)

The flower is a dark turquoise blue..Roxy may get a peace sign on hers. Or a flower. not sure yet..