Circe Cardi

So I’ve become obsessive passionate about pattern writing lately. And rather ambitious too! I decided I wanted a cardigan, but the patterns I tried were working too slowly for me, or required too much thought on my part. Go laziness!

I wanted something that was simple, worked up quickly, and was comfortable. And didn’t take 4 skeins of yarn.  I used Red Heart mostly because it cooperates pretty easily for just about anything. I think I’ll try some Caron or Patons next time though.

I wanted a really simple-to-figure neck shaping, so I thought a circular yoke would be the way to go. It works awesomely! This pattern is really easy to adjust-in fact I plan to mod it to fit my bf, and turn it into a hoodie with a zipper. Just make your starting chain long enough to wrap loosely around your neck (or whoever is gonna wear it), and work in a similar pattern to what I’ve got here.  I want to make my lil girl one, and she’s 16 months so I know this style cardi should work well for any adjustments you’d like to make!

Also, if the ribbing is too wonky for you, add a different edging or leave it off if you want!

I haven’t gotten buttons on mine yet. I’ll be getting them later today, but I wanted to get this up here because I was excited and impatient. I’ll have my bf take a pic of me in it buttons and all later on.

Circe Cardi

K hook

I hook

2 skeins of Red Heart WW Yarn

Special Stitches-

Camel Stitch

Linked Double Crochet

When doing the first dc of a row, make it a linked dc using the starting 2-ch to close the gap. Insert the hook into the 2nd ch, pull up a loop, insert into the st, pull up a loop, yo & pull thru 2 loops, yo & pull thru 2 loops.

Always work first dc in 2nd st. The turning ch 2 always counts as first dc. Work last dc in top of turning ch 2.

I recommend doing a Russian Join to join a new skein of yarn. It makes for less knots and weaving in! A very good photo tutorial can be found at http://twistyarnshop.blogspot.com/2009/05/russian-join.html

Ch 52

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook in the back loop and in each ch across. 50 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 2nd st (ch 2 counts as first dc), dc to end. 50 sts

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. dc in 2nd st from hook, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat * to * around, dc in last 2 sts. 66 sts

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around, dc in last 3 sts. 87 sts

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 87 sts

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st*  repeat *to* around to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. 108 sts.

Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 108 sts.

Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. 129 sts

Row 9:  Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 129 sts

Row 10: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 17 sts, skip 27 sts, join w dc to next st, dc in next 39 sts, skip 27 sts, join to next st w dc, dc in last 17 sts. Sleeves made!

Rows 11-29: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st across. 75 sts (Do less rows if you want a shorter cardigan, more for a longer one)

Switch to an I hook

You’ll be working the edging along the front sides & neck now.

Row 1: Ch 2. Do not turn. Working along front right side, hdc up front side, placing 2 hdc in right top corner, along neckline, placing 2 hdc in left top corner and down to bottom of front left side (46 hdc up right side, 50 hdc along neckline, 46 hdc down left side). 142 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Work camel stitch (hdc in the back hump of previous hdc) back along row 1 to right side,  hdc in first 3 sts,* ch 2, skip 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts* repeat *to* six times, hdc in last st. 142 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around in the back loop only in each st and ch around. 142 sts.

Next, you’ll attach the bottom ribbing. There is an excellent video online if you need a visual tutorial for this part: http://www.monkeysee.com/play/10396-crocheted-ribbing-attaching-the-ribbing

Still using the I hook, you’ll start with a chain, work sc back down the chain, sl st in the next st, sl st in the next st, then sc in the back loop back down the sts you just made, skipping the 2 sl sts.

Ch 7

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (6 sts) Sl st in end of next row, sl st in end of next row.

Row 2: Skip 2 sl sts, sc in the back loop of each of the 6 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the back loop of each of the 6 sts, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 around bottom edge of cardigan.

Break yarn, fasten off.

Arms:

Round 1: With K hook, join yarn at armpit and ch 2, dc 29 sts around arm. Join to first dc. 30 sts

Rounds 2-7: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc around,  join w sl st to top of ch 2. 30 sts

Round 8: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc to last 2 dc, dc2tog, join w sl st to top of ch 2. 28 sts

Rounds 9-10: Ch 2, dc around. 28 sts

Round 11: Repeat round 8. 26 sts

Rounds 12-15:Ch 2, dc around. 26 sts

Round 16: repeat round 8. 24 sts

Round 17: Ch 2, dc around. 24 sts

Round 18: Repeat round 8. 22 sts

Round 19: Ch 2, dc around. 22 sts

Round 20: repeat round 8. 20 sts

Round 21: Ch 2, dc around. 20 sts

Round 22: Repeat round 8. 18 sts.

Rounds 23-24: Ch 2, dc around. 18 sts

Switch to I hook

Now you’re going to work a ribbed cuff on the arm, as for the previously made ribbed edging.

Row 1: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (8 sc), sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Row 2: Skip 2 sl sts, sc in the back loop of sc sts. 8 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loop of each st, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 around cuff to beginning, place last sl st in bottom of first part of cuff, skip 2 sl sts, sc in back loops of each sc, turn, do not ch, line up edges of cuff & sl st thru back loop of first st & first st of opposite edge, sl st down sts in this manner to sleeve, break yarn & fasten off.

Work other arm the same.

Sew buttons onto left front side.

Block if desired.

Comfy and cozy! Great for this awful arctic weather we’ve been having here lately! Did I mention it’s fast? Great weekend project!

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34 thoughts on “Circe Cardi

  1. for some reason all i can get is pages 1 to 2. i can not get the pages for the sleeves. i printed up pages 1 and 2. love the sweater. what sizes can it be made in? i have an aunt in a nursing home who wears a size 3x

    • hmm i’m not sure why that wouldn’t print! i’m pretty positive that it can be made in any size. i chose top down so you can try as you go..you would just need to keep increasing ever other row, and lessen the increases each time (every 4 sts, then every 5 sts, then every 6 sts, etc) until it just fits below your arms,then join where your arms would fit comfortably. It’s more of a recipe than an exact cardigan, more to show how a top down circular yoke cardigan works 🙂 please let me know if you need more help though and i’ll try to help you out with sizing!

  2. i tried 2 times to print out this pattern. i got page 1 and page 2. i get page 2 til where it says to switch to an i hook then i get row 1 but nothing after that.

  3. I love this pattern, it seems beautiful and I have the wool here in the house to do it, but can you tell me what size it is? You do mention that it is for an adult, and the pictures are wonderful, but could be deceiving. Please let me know what size you are. And again, thank you for this wonderful pattern. Sarah

  4. Thank you cloverchild, I am just going to do it! If it is small I will give it to my daughter. This way I can see the guage, and once I work it up I can figure out the construction and how to increase. So I am going to work on that and will let you know how it turns out. Have a magnificent week.

  5. Would like to try this. Have large upper arms and cardigan patterns to fit are few and far between. Looks to be on the “easy” side and I can make the arm holes fit first then continue on. Did you get the problem of printing all the pages worked out? If possible e-mail answer to me. Thanks for the idea, I hope it works out for me, it seems tailor made.

    • No, I’m not quite sure what the trouble seems to be. I may work and make it into a pdf that one can download-going to check to see if that will clear up the issue. Certainly hope so!

  6. Hi,

    I have made four sweaters for my children using your pattern. THANK YOU! They turned out beautifully!!! I will make one for my husband next.

  7. I’m getting so confused in row 6 of this pattern starting off. When it says dc in next 3 sts then dc in next st….does it basically mean dc 4 or 3 dc and like 2 dc in the next or what….really confused…please help. Thanks.

  8. Hi! 🙂 Thank you for sharing your pattern, it’s my first big project to do. Definitely my first cardigan too. I’m stuck though.

    On row 6 is there a typo?

    You say *dc in next 3 sts, dc in next st*

    Is that saying in three stitches, do a DC in each one. Then in the fourth stitch, do another DC?

    Or should that be *DC in next 3 sts, 2 DC in next st* instead? I’m going to go ahead and try that second way and see if I end up with the right amount of stitches.

  9. Hi again! This goes along with my other comment, regarding row 6. I only end up with 106 stitches for row 6. I can’t quite work out where to stick two more increases in, if I do the *to* as dc in next three, 2dc in next st.

  10. i’m having a problem as to learn how to do the linked dc ans i love your sweater and would like to make it for myself while i’m out on medical leave from work,would you please send me and email of the pattern with the chest size 38. i’m going to keep trying with it . row 6 is a problem, but i figured out what it was suppose to be. Have a great summer. and if you come up with anymore projects would you be able to send me emails for the patterns. I love your work!!!!!!!!!!! my email is: thehinesfamily@yahoo.com thanks so much for the beautiful sweater.

  11. Hi, I don’t know if its too much to ask, but can you rewrite the pattern. I’m slightly confused. When you begin to say “always start with a linked DC” I get lost because it’s not refered in the pattern. Thank you!

  12. Hi Cloverchild…I have been crocheting baby sweaters with a similar pattern which turned out so well that my daughter and girlfriends are asking for one big enough to fit them! I’m happy to find your pattern and will use it for the bigger sweaters. Will let you know how they turn out. Thanks again…was wondering how I was going to enlarge the pattern…you just did it for me! 🙂

  13. this is SHARON LEE again. i got all the pages printed out so i will make one for myself when i have the chance. my aunt has since died about 2 yrs ago. i am crocheting ripple afgahans for a homeless center. i am on my 3rd and have about 15 more to do. thank you for posting it again.

  14. i am a 2x size but would like to make this cardigan for myself since i am now 76 and retired. i have made iterms for everyone else but want to make myself something now. you said you are s/m how many stitches do you suggesst i use for a 2x size.?

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