It’s beginning to look a lot like….Hoth

Winters in Wyoming are obnoxiously cold. I’ve been joking with everyone that it seems more like Hoth around here. And with my job, I’m usually out in it when it decides to blow 30+ miles an hour icy death winds. I decided I probably need to make a cowl/face warmer to help block out some of that nasty wind.

Image

I made ninja jokes all night.

It’s an easy enough pattern! So I thought I’d share it with everyone.

J hook

Worsted Weight yarn

Stitches used:

foundation half double crochet-fdhc

back loop only-blo

fhdc 45

ch 1, turn. hdc in blo across

repeat for 15 rows(or until length desired-enough to cover from ear to ear)

Image

next row: ch 1, turn. hdc to last 15 sts, skip these sts and ch 17.

turn, single crochet in 3rd ch from hook and each st in blo across.

repeat for 14 rows(or similar size to front half)

Image

ch 1, turn. hdc in blo to last 15 sts. Stop, break yarn leaving a long tail

thread onto sewing needle,and sew last row made to first row made.

Image

Finish off, weave in ends.

And waa-laa! A nice warm cowl to keep out the winds of Wyoming.

Advertisements

New projects, new endeavors

Hope everyone is having a good summer. Ours has been hot here, and we’ve had a recent invasion of out -of-towners for an event in town. I’ve been working a new job since November, and it’s going to pick up again on hours here shortly for back to school. But, I hope to keep up on the blogs better than I have been..

One thing I’ve gotten into has been slip stitch crochet. It has a lot of other aliases (bosnian, pjoning) but essentially they’re all meaning working in nothing but slip stitches.

Here’s an example:

ImageA very close-up of a washcloth I made.

There are four basic stitches of slip stitch crochet (I think i’m just going to abbreviate it as ss crochet):

FLO-front loop only. Just like it says, insert your hook thru the front loop only, front to back.

BLO-back loop only. Like flo, just in back loop.

The other two require you to turn your hook and point it towards you. Or rather, invert it.

iF-inverse front. Invert your hook, and insert your hook back to front in the front loop.

iB-inverse back. Like iF, just in back loop.

There are other stitches, but these are what start you off. Incidentally, I started a youtube channel and I showed these stitches! (Plus a really cool way to start your work, instead of chaining or foundation crochet.) Here’s the link: http://www.youtube.com/user/MsSylvieLoves?feature=mhee

I set it up because, well, I love ss crochet and have been writing patterns for it. And trying to get better at it. I need to add some more videos on different stitches, but it’s a good primer.

Here are some examples of what you can do with it:

ImageA lacy ascot I made for myself

ImageA hat and booties set for my DD’s baby doll

ImageA hat (that is a pattern for adults and kids)

Pretty cool, right? If you want to, I’d recommend getting some books on it. Bendy Carter’s “Knit 1 Purl 2 in Crochet” is all about slip stitches, though she does use different terminology. (knit usually refers to blo or flo, purl refers to inverse stitches). I have gotten some great books in German as well, so if you can read German/feel like a challenge both of Tanja Osswald’s books are wonderful! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kettmaschen-H%C3%A4keln-entdeckt-Kuschelige-Winteraccessoires/dp/3772466850/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1342730839&sr=1-1

I have written up a dishcloth pattern if I have you interested enough 😉 it’s been up for download at ravelry and craftsy, but I’ll post it here too. If you ever want a pdf version, just head over to one of those sites. Or message me. Either way.

In this pattern I mention the co/bo method. It’s called cast on/bind off method, and it was in Bendy Carter’s book. It’s fantastic, and it’s basically a modded version of long tail cast on in knitting. I have a video how to on that youtube channel I linked to. If it’s too strange though, you can definitely just chain to start.

Image

Materials:

M hook

WW cotton yarn (Peaches n Cream) less than half a skein makes one cloth

Stitches Used:

Front Loop Only (flo)-slip stitches front to back (point hook away from you) in the front loop only.

Inverse Back (iB)-slip stitches back to front (point hook towards you) in the back loop only.

You can start this pattern with whatever your preference is: chaining or using the co/bo method. Either one will work.

Pattern:

co/bo OR chain 25 sts

Rows 1-4: flo across

Row 5: flo across

Row 6: *flo 3 sts, iB 19 sts, flo 3 sts*

Rows 7-22: repeat last 2 rows

Rows 23- 26: flo across

And it’s snowed. already.

Hooray for living in Wyoming. It’s already nasty and cold outside, and the snow is trying desperately to cling to my yard. Hats are being made as well as gloves, as I’m evidently already behind now. My obsession with making my crochet look knit continues, and I tried making a hat for DD with post stitches, but I used half double crochets instead of double crochets. It worked out pretty nicely! It’s actually pretty stretchy, and visually much nicer than double or treble post stitches.

On DD’s lil noggin. she actually kept stealing it and trying to ‘crochet’ it herself. mostly it got stabbed with a hook. cute, regardless 🙂

I didn’t write up a pattern, but I can give you a nice recipe for what I did! I suppose I call it First Snow Beanie.

I used an F hook, and some mystery unlabeled yarn. It’s baby/sport weight, and I’m guessing bernat. It’s acrylic, I can tell that much. I used a bit tighter tension than I usually do, as well. I made it for my 2 yr old daughter, and it’s nice and snug. And covers her ears well.

I started out with 10 dc’s into a magic loop, then joined.

I ch’d 1 at the start of each round, and worked my first st into the same st as join. It makes for a cleaner start.

I worked in hdc from there, and increased by 10 each round. So, first round 2hdc in each st, then every other st on next round, and so on. I worked until I had 90 sts total. You’ll need to get to a multiple of 6, whatever size you’ll be making.

After you get to the size you want, you’ll switch to post ribbing, but hdc post st ribbing. I started with 2 bphdc, then 1 fphdc. So, a 2×1 rib pattern. I just worked in that until I got the length I wanted!

It’s so cute! And she lets me keep putting it on her. Which is a good sign…means I shouldn’t have to add ties to make it stay on, but knock on wood there. I’d like to make an adult one for her daddy, since he’s out in the cold during the day 😦 poor daddy! I already made him one hat but it never hurts to have more.

I’m working on some mittens for her to match. I’ve got one made so far, but I wrote down exactly what I did on these.

The ribbing got a little slack, but I keep getting distracted whilst making it..not to mention more toddler ‘crochet’ work was put into it. hehe. But that does seem to effect the ribbing, which doesn’t look as nice as the hat. I’ll have to see how the second mitten turns out. I’ll post the mitten pattern after I get the second one done and make sure there are no errors in it.

The hat off her head. It actually cinches up quite more than I’d thought it would. Yay! I may make one for myself, if I can convince myself to wear tight hats. haha.

Hope you enjoy! More posts to come as I get my craft mode set to ON for the gift giving season. 🙂

Tunisian shorties!

Tunisian shorties! Hooray!

I’ve only seen one pattern for tunisian longies/shorties, so I’ve been wanting to do this for a while 🙂 I’m pretty excited about it! I’ll be making a second pair for DD that are cotton, so she can have some comfy summer shorts too.

These are pretty trim, but I’ve put in plenty of short rows for cloth booties.(A note on that-if you do 2 colors like I did, you will have A LOT of ends to weave in 😛 just to warn you.. ) It’s worked top down, in the round using a double ended hook. It’s my favorite method for tunisian in the round and there are some good videos of it on youtube if you need. You’ll need 2 working skeins of yarn, hence why I used 2 different colors..easy way to make it interesting,albeit a bit of a pain for weaving in ends 😉

Baby booty! Without a cloth dipe, so a lil saggy.

Size is for a toddler, about a 2T. and I’ll have to find my notes on rise and such. Waist is about 19 in, rise 22 in give or take. Feel free to add more or take away in the short rows as you need.

Materials:

Size H double ended hook. I used one that was 10 in long, and it worked well for me

WW wool yarn in 2 skeins-I used Patons, which is also on the lighter side of worsted, just to let you know. Note-wordpress is apparently really special when it comes to changing font, and I wrote the pattern notes on my DH’s computer, which does not have word on it, and when I copied and pasted it made my font tiny and apparently impossible to change without knowledge of html. sigh.

TSS-Tunisian Simple Stitch

Increase-Work an increase by inserting hook into next horizontal bar after the designated number of TSS sts (ie insert into next horizontal bar after the 10th tss st)

ch 60 with first skein, sl st into back hump of first ch to join into round.

Work a basic foundation row to get you set up (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQfp88HI2WY for a great video on how to start and work in tunisian in the round)

Rounds 1-5: TSS around

Round 6: Increase every 10th st around. 66 sts

Round 7: Work even around, placing (if you haven’t done so already) one stitch marker at beginning (I’ll designate this marker 1), and one stitch marker halfway(I’ll designate this marker 2). Half of your sts will be the front side, half will be the back side, and the markers help this out 🙂

Next you’ll start working in some short rows on the back side as you work

Round 8: Work even to 10 sts before end (1st marker), work return pass to 10 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Round 9: Work even to 9 sts before end (1st marker), work return pass to 9 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Rounds 10-12: Work even around

Rounds 13-14: Repeat rounds 8-9

Round 15: Work even to 8 sts before 1st marker,return pass to 8 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Round 16: Work even to 7 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 7 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end

Rounds 17-21: Work even

Round 22: This row will have a short row section on the back side- Work even to 6 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 6 sts before 2nd marker,  work forward pass to 4 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 4 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to 1 st before 1st marker, return pass to 1 st before 2nd marker, forward pass to end, return pass to 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Rounds 23-24: Work even

Gusset:

I used an extra bit of yarn, so I didn’t have to break my working yarn. I also got lazy and did it in one color 😛 haha! It’s hard to spot while she’s wearing them so I don’t mind, and neither does she 😉

Find middlemost 11 sts on the backside. With rs facing, join yarn to first of 11 sts and work a tss forward pass. Return pass as normal.

Row 1: tss across. return pass 11 sts

Row 2: Tss to last 2 sts, tss2tog, return pass to last 2 sts (3 loops on hook), yo and pull thru all 3 loops on hook. 9 sts

Rows 3-4: repeat row 1

Repeat rows 1-4 once more

Next row: tss across, do not return pass!

Find middlemost 6 sts on front sides

Graft the gusset to these 6 sts using your favorite method-I used kitchener actually! The 6 sts are still ‘live’ so I worked it just the same as knit sts. 🙂 knitty.com has a good photo tutorial if you are unfamiliar with it.

Legs:

If you did not break your yarn, this first leg is slightly easier. This should also be the right leg. Grab up your yarn again, work a forward pass (13 sts) to gusset, pick up 10 sts along side of gusset, forward pass to end (11 sts) You should have 34 sts.

Rounds 1-9: work even around.

Round 10: work a bind off row. Note-if not adding a trim or ribbing, I’d recommend binding off in tps (tunisian purl st) to help control curling.

Attach yarn to other leg at marker, and work as for right leg.

Work whatever typing of ribbing you like at the top of shorties-I picked up sts and worked 1×1 ribbing in knitting for 6 rows. You could do slip stitch ribbing in crochet, fpdc/bpdc ribbing, sc ribbing, or a drawstring of some kind. All up to you!

Make the legs longer and turn these into longies! 🙂 Make them yours!

I’ll post more pics after I try out a cotton pair too. 🙂 enjoy! And please buzz me with any questions you may have.


					

Toddler Sunhat

It’s finally starting to get sunny here!! So I thought DD needed a new sunhat 🙂  And I wanted it simple, cute and comfy.

She thought it was great that I wanted to take a picture of her in her hat, so she ran away squealing with laughter. I’ll have to snag a pic of her in it later!

I used Little Lehi cotton/acrylic yarn. It’s nice and soft and I love the color which is really hard to capture in a picture 😛 It’s a lovely summer yellow. Size is for toddler.

DK weight cotton yarn

H hook

Make magic loop, 10 sc into loop.

Round 1: 2 sc in each st around. 20 sts

Round 2: sc in each st around.

Round 3: [sc in first st, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 30 sts

Round 4: sc in each st around.

Round 5: [sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 40 sts

Round 6: sc in each st around

Round 7: [sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 50 sts

Round 8: sc in each st around.

Round 9: [sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 60 sts

Rounds 10-14: sc in each st around

Round 15: sl st in next st, ch 2 (counts as first dc) dc in each st around. Join to top of ch 2. 60 dc

Rounds 16-19 :ch 2, fpdc around each dc, join to top of ch 2.

Round 20: do not ch, sc in each st around.

Round 21: [sc in first 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 70 sts

Round 22: sc in each st around.

Round 23: [sc in first 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 80 sts

Round 24: sc in each st around

Round 25: [sc in first 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 90 sts

Round 26: sc in each st around

Round 27: [sc in first 8 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 100 sts

Round 28: sc in each st around

Round 29: [sc in first 9 sts, 2 sc in next st] repeat [ ] around. 110 sts

Round 30: sc in each st around.

Sl st in next st. Break yarn and fasten off.

I may add some ties to it if it becomes..necessary. Usually DD is pretty good about wearing hats, but you know. 😉

Summer Toddler Halter

I know it’ll eventually get to be summer here, and that usually means hooot hooot dry weather here. So I thought I’d stay ahead of the game and start making DD some lil tops for summer. I keep seeing adorable knit apron tops, but not too many crochet ones.

Sorry, had to be over her outfit. Still pretty chilly here!

I think next time I’ll make the halter strap a bit shorter, but it came out rather cute. I may make it a bit wider too, as this is definitely more apron style. But it’s very cute!

WW Acrylic yarn-I used Patons Canadia, and didn’t use the whole skein. Maybe 3 oz ish.

I hook

If you want to adjust size, just bear in mind that the ripple pattern is a 10 + 1 repeat, and straps are really easy to adjust. As the pattern sits, it would probably fit 12-24 months ish. My dd is a petite gal, and has about a 20″ chest. 😀 so she’s still in her 18 mo clothes although she’s almost 22 mo!

CH 51.

Row 1: Sl st in back loop only in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across.

Row 2: (rs) ch 1, turn. Sl st in front loop only in each st across.

Row 3: (ws) ch 1, turn. Sl st in back loop only in each st across.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 six more times. Break yarn and fasten off.

Bottom half

Ch 53

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook in the back hump, dc in next 3 chs, [skip 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, ch 2, dc in next 4 ch] repeat [ ] across to last 6 ch, skip 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch, dc in last ch.

Row 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc) skip first st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, [skip next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, {dc, ch 2, dc} in next ch-2 space, dc in next 3 sts] repeat [ ] across to last 6 sts, skip 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in top of turning ch.

Repeat row 2 seven times

Next row: ch 1, turn. Sl st in back loop only of each st across, putting one sl st in ch-2 spaces. 46 sl sts.

Next row: ch 1, turn. Sl st in front loops only across.

Repeat last row 15 or until top piece measures about 2 1/2 in

Do not turn. Back straps are worked next.

Ch 1, sl st 3 times down side of work.

Ch 1, turn. Sl st in front loops only in 3 sts.

Repeat this row 50 times. Fasten off one strap made.

Attach yarn to opposite side, repeat for other strap.

Halter strap: ch 47

Dc in back hump of 3rd ch from hook and each ch down. Break yarn leaving tail for sewing.

Fold top in half, and sew one end of strap slightly to one side of center.

Sew buttons on (one is purely decorative)

I really like the slip stitched top half. Looks so nice and neat 🙂

Weave in loose ends

Super Bum Soaker!

I hardly ever see woolly soakers done in Tunisian. When I was first learning Tunisian I thought it’d be perfect for a soaker!! Super thick=super protection, right? Especially for naptime/nighttime usage!

Thus a super cushy soaker was born! And it is a poofy beastie, as I usually am over zealous about DD’s naptime/nightime cloth diapers. Too many leaks..

Mine still needs to lanolized, but I’m pretty happy about it! Next I’m going to make one not quite so big so it can cover trimmer diapers a little more nicely.

And of course I’m sharing the pattern! 🙂

Super Bum Soaker

Size L-XL Waist is about 19-20″, rise about 19″

Materials:

WW wool yarn-I used Paton’s Classic, along with some unlabeled yarn for the waistband

H Hook-regular crochet hook

KHook-Must be Tunisian hook

TKS-Tunisian knit stitch

INC-Increase by inserting hook into very next horizontal bar (right before next vertical bar to be worked) yo & pull up a loop.

With h hook, ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from loop and each across. 7 sts

Row 1: ch 1, turn. Sc in back loop only.

Repeat row 1 30 more times. Back waistband made

Switch to K hook.

Pick up 33 sts along waistband. Work return pass. 34 sts.

Pic of work after row 2..ish.

Row 1: tks in first st, [inc, tks in next 2 sts] repeat [] across, tks in last 2 sts. Work return pass. 50 sts

Rows 2-4: tks across. Work return pass.

Row 5: tks to last 5 sts, then work a return pass back to the first 5 sts, tks to end, work a return pass all the way back. Short row section made. See following pics:

Coming up on end of short on the forward pass to the end. See the jump there? We’ll get rid of it and any holes by doing the following:


Insert hook into both the end stitch and the top of the next horizontal bar, yo & pull up a loop.

See? Pulls it nice and tight together. When you return pass, you do nothing unusual. But, when working the next forward pass, you’ll want to cover up the gap made at the other end, doing a similar thing:

Gap. No good! We’ll do about the same thing here. Insert your hook into the horizontal bar below, then into the next stitch, yo & pull up a loop.

Pulls together nicely! You can skip this if it’s too confusing, or if you aren’t bothered by the gaps.

Row 6-11: tks across, work return pass.

Row 12: repeat row 5

Rows 13-14: tks across, work return pass.

Row 15: tks to last 2 sts, tks2tog, return pass to last 2 sts(3 loops on hook), yo & pull through last 2 sts (pull through all 3 loops). 48 sts

Row 16: tks across, work return pass.

Row 17: repeat row 15. 46 sts

Row 18: work another short row, going to last 3 sts of either side.

R0w 19: repeat row 15. 44 sts

Row 20: tks across, work return pass.

Rows 21-28: repeat row 15. 28 sts

Rows 29-36: tks across, work return pass.

Row 37: inc, tks to last st, inc. 30 sts

Rows 38-42 : repeat row 37-should end with 40 sts

Rows 43-55: tks across, work return pass. 40 sts

Row 56: tks in first 7 sts, [tks2tog, tks in next 6 sts] repeat [] across to last 6 sts, tks in next 4, tks2tog in last 2 sts. Return pass to last 2 sts(3 loops on hook), yo & pull through last 2 sts (all 3 loops). 34 sts

Row 57: tks across, work return pass.

Bind off in tks.

Switch to H hook, Attach yarn to right side of top of work (rs facing). If you don’t switch to the opposite side, you’ll get a weird edge, more so if you work a second color in the waistband as I did.

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each down, sl st in next 2 sts

Turn, skip sl sts, sc in back loops only.

Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loops only, sl st in next 2 sts

Repeat this across the top to make front of waistband.

Sorry that it’s fairly dark. This one was taken at night! But here’s the cover lying flat.

Fold cover and line up sides

All sewn up!

Sew up sides using favorite method-I use basically a mattress stitch.

Cuffs:

With H hook, join yarn to leg opening.

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch down, sl st in next 2 sts. 10 sts

Skip 2 sl sts, sc in back loops only, ch 1 and turn.

Sc in back loops only, sl st in next 2 sts.

Work in this fashion around leg opening, then sl st sides together.

Repeat for other leg.

Or, do a simple crochet leg opening, or a knitted rib, or whatever you prefer.

Lanolize and put on your lil one!

Chunk Slouch

I had a small skein of super chunk yarn staring me down today…so I whipped up this lil slouch hat in about 20 min. Hooray for chunk yarn!

Chunk Slouch Hat

P/Q Hook

L Hook

Super Chunk Yarn-I used about a skein of Lion Brand Hometown

6 dc into magic loop, join to first dc.

Round 1: Ch 2, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each st around. Join to ch 2. 12 sts

Round 2: Ch 2, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around. 18 sts

Round 3: Ch 2, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts] around. 24 sts

Round 4: Ch 2, dc in next 2 sts, [2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts] around. 30 sts

Round 5: Ch 2, dc around. 30 sts

Round 6: Switch to L hook, ch 1, sc in back loops only around.

Round 7: Ch 1, sc in back humps around. See pics below.

Looking at brim. Working in the back humps causes this sideways ‘stocknette’ pattern to emerge.

When you turn your work to look at the back, there is that ‘bump’ sitting behind the 2 loops you normally work into.

Stick your hook into this bump. This is where you place your sc sts to get that look on the brim.

Work your sc in each bump around. See? Not too hard. Just different

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in back humps around.

Fasten off, weave in ends.


That 70s Slouch

I really love slouch hats..I do. 🙂

This is an easy one to whip up, and I plan on making a couple more like it! Some for baby girl too. I think she needs one in a nice yellow color..

I’m going to add a flower to mine, I’m just lazy and haven’t sewn it on yet. Pics are lousy until then too, as I finished this up at night.

Look at that orange!! Bout the same color as my funky wallpaper in my kitchen. I just got new dishes the same color. hehe.

J hook

F hook

WW yarn-I used red heart in ‘carrot’ if you’re wondering.

 

Working in a spiral, so mark beginning of rounds if you’d like. No joining, just keep on keepin on!

10 dc into magic loop-pull tight to close.

Round 1: 2 dc in each st. 20 sts

Round 2: [1 dc in first st, 2 dc in next st] around. 30 sts

Round 3: [1 dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 40 sts

Round 4: [1 dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 50 sts

Round 5: [1 dc in first 9 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 55 sts

Work even on these stitches until length desired. My hat’s pretty slouchy.. I think I did 6 rows. Yes, I did. Sorry, had to count.

Then switch to F hook, sl st in next st, and then work some ribbing around hat!

Ch 7, turn, hdc in 3rd st from hook and each down, sl st in next 2 sts on hat.

Row 1: Turn, skip 2 sl sts and hdc in back loop only.

Row 2: ch 2, turn and hdc in back loop only back down, sl st in next 2 sts along hat.

Repeat these 2 rows around hat, then either sl st sides together or sew together. (see my circe cardi pattern for more on ribbing worked this way)

The flower is a dark turquoise blue..Roxy may get a peace sign on hers. Or a flower. not sure yet..

 

Double Slip Stitch Pic Tutorial

Ok so I get a lot of questions on the double slip stitch, and since I can’t find any photo or video tutorials online I’m putting one up here. I don’t have access to a video recorder other than my phone 😛 so it’s just going to be a photo tut.

Ok I’m following how I did it in my last Ribby Slouch Hat, and working this stitch flat.

I started with a base of 10 hdc stitches.

Ch 1 and turn. Next row will be a double slip stitch row

Insert hook into first stitch.

Yarn over and pull up a loop.

Pull through one loop on hook. Slip stitch made.

Insert hook back into first stitch

Yarn over and pull up a loop

Insert hook into second stitch

Yarn over and pull up a loop

Pull that last yarn over through both loops on hook!

One double slip stitch made. Hooray!

Then to keep going, work another double slip stitch-insert hook into second stitch again

Yarn over and pull up a loop

Insert hook into third stitch

Yarn over and pull up a loop

Pull that last loop through the two loops on the hook. Another double slip stitch made!

Keep going with the double slip stitch across to the end. Remember, each stitch gets 2 slip stitches!(Quick note-this is the wrong side facing you right now)  Ch 2 and the end and turn

Now the right side is facing. See how the double slip stitch has made two horizontal rows of v-shaped stitches? Now, if you turn the work towards you..

You’ll see that there is another set of v-shaped stitches sitting on top, like normal.  This is where you’ll work your second row, of hdc stitches.


Insert hook into the back loop only of the first stitch, then work an hdc as usual.

This will result in a loose rib, but it will look very much like it was knit. If you want a tighter rib, use a single crochet, looser a double crochet.

Right side facing, after last hdc row made.

Wrong side facing.

I hope this helps to better illustrate how to do this stitch.  Please message me with any additional questions though!