So I’ve become
obsessive passionate about pattern writing lately. And rather ambitious too! I decided I wanted a cardigan, but the patterns I tried were working too slowly for me, or required too much thought on my part. Go laziness!
I wanted something that was simple, worked up quickly, and was comfortable. And didn’t take 4 skeins of yarn. I used Red Heart mostly because it cooperates pretty easily for just about anything. I think I’ll try some Caron or Patons next time though.
I wanted a really simple-to-figure neck shaping, so I thought a circular yoke would be the way to go. It works awesomely! This pattern is really easy to adjust-in fact I plan to mod it to fit my bf, and turn it into a hoodie with a zipper. Just make your starting chain long enough to wrap loosely around your neck (or whoever is gonna wear it), and work in a similar pattern to what I’ve got here. I want to make my lil girl one, and she’s 16 months so I know this style cardi should work well for any adjustments you’d like to make!
Also, if the ribbing is too wonky for you, add a different edging or leave it off if you want!
I haven’t gotten buttons on mine yet. I’ll be getting them later today, but I wanted to get this up here because I was excited and impatient. I’ll have my bf take a pic of me in it buttons and all later on.
2 skeins of Red Heart WW Yarn
Linked Double Crochet
When doing the first dc of a row, make it a linked dc using the starting 2-ch to close the gap. Insert the hook into the 2nd ch, pull up a loop, insert into the st, pull up a loop, yo & pull thru 2 loops, yo & pull thru 2 loops.
Always work first dc in 2nd st. The turning ch 2 always counts as first dc. Work last dc in top of turning ch 2.
I recommend doing a Russian Join to join a new skein of yarn. It makes for less knots and weaving in! A very good photo tutorial can be found at http://twistyarnshop.blogspot.com/2009/05/russian-join.html
Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook in the back loop and in each ch across. 50 sts
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 2nd st (ch 2 counts as first dc), dc to end. 50 sts
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. dc in 2nd st from hook, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat * to * around, dc in last 2 sts. 66 sts
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around, dc in last 3 sts. 87 sts
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 87 sts
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st* repeat *to* around to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. 108 sts.
Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 108 sts.
Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. 129 sts
Row 9: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 129 sts
Row 10: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 17 sts, skip 27 sts, join w dc to next st, dc in next 39 sts, skip 27 sts, join to next st w dc, dc in last 17 sts. Sleeves made!
Rows 11-29: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st across. 75 sts (Do less rows if you want a shorter cardigan, more for a longer one)
Switch to an I hook
You’ll be working the edging along the front sides & neck now.
Row 1: Ch 2. Do not turn. Working along front right side, hdc up front side, placing 2 hdc in right top corner, along neckline, placing 2 hdc in left top corner and down to bottom of front left side (46 hdc up right side, 50 hdc along neckline, 46 hdc down left side). 142 sts
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Work camel stitch (hdc in the back hump of previous hdc) back along row 1 to right side, hdc in first 3 sts,* ch 2, skip 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts* repeat *to* six times, hdc in last st. 142 sts
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around in the back loop only in each st and ch around. 142 sts.
Next, you’ll attach the bottom ribbing. There is an excellent video online if you need a visual tutorial for this part: http://www.monkeysee.com/play/10396-crocheted-ribbing-attaching-the-ribbing
Still using the I hook, you’ll start with a chain, work sc back down the chain, sl st in the next st, sl st in the next st, then sc in the back loop back down the sts you just made, skipping the 2 sl sts.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (6 sts) Sl st in end of next row, sl st in end of next row.
Row 2: Skip 2 sl sts, sc in the back loop of each of the 6 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the back loop of each of the 6 sts, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 around bottom edge of cardigan.
Break yarn, fasten off.
Round 1: With K hook, join yarn at armpit and ch 2, dc 29 sts around arm. Join to first dc. 30 sts
Rounds 2-7: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc around, join w sl st to top of ch 2. 30 sts
Round 8: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc to last 2 dc, dc2tog, join w sl st to top of ch 2. 28 sts
Rounds 9-10: Ch 2, dc around. 28 sts
Round 11: Repeat round 8. 26 sts
Rounds 12-15:Ch 2, dc around. 26 sts
Round 16: repeat round 8. 24 sts
Round 17: Ch 2, dc around. 24 sts
Round 18: Repeat round 8. 22 sts
Round 19: Ch 2, dc around. 22 sts
Round 20: repeat round 8. 20 sts
Round 21: Ch 2, dc around. 20 sts
Round 22: Repeat round 8. 18 sts.
Rounds 23-24: Ch 2, dc around. 18 sts
Switch to I hook
Now you’re going to work a ribbed cuff on the arm, as for the previously made ribbed edging.
Row 1: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (8 sc), sl st in next st, sl st in next st.
Row 2: Skip 2 sl sts, sc in the back loop of sc sts. 8 sts
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loop of each st, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 around cuff to beginning, place last sl st in bottom of first part of cuff, skip 2 sl sts, sc in back loops of each sc, turn, do not ch, line up edges of cuff & sl st thru back loop of first st & first st of opposite edge, sl st down sts in this manner to sleeve, break yarn & fasten off.
Work other arm the same.
Sew buttons onto left front side.
Block if desired.
Comfy and cozy! Great for this awful arctic weather we’ve been having here lately! Did I mention it’s fast? Great weekend project!