Ribby Slouch

The wind will not die down here, so I continue to make hats (also since I keep giving away hats, I keep making them..) and this time I wanted a simple, slouchy hat.  I wanted it to look knit too, so I used a double slip stitch again (like on my Nuance Hat). But since it’s worked flat, you need to slip into your first stitch, then do a double slip stitch in the first stitch as wellin order to not decrease accidentally.

I know the double slip stitch (dsl st) can give some people a problem-but you just need to make sure you are putting 2 sl sts into each st! You start off each sl st row with 1 sl st in the first, then do a dsl st by inserting your hook into the first st again, pulling up a loop, then inserting hook into second st, pulling up a loop, then pulling that loop thru the 2 loops on the hook. Then you’d just work dsl sts across.

I’ll try and get a photo tutorial done so you can have a visual of this stitch too.

G hook

WW wool yarn-I used Patons Classic

Hat is worked flat, then sewn/crocheted up the side and top to close!

Ch 52, hdc in back hump of 3rd ch from hook and each hump across-50 sts

Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Sl st in first st, Dsl st in first st and dsl st across.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc in back loop only across.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 until hat just fits around head, and make sure your last row is a row 2. Break yarn, then fold rectangle in half and sl st up sides. Put tail onto a needle and sew top closed.

Wah-la! Cute knit-look rib hat!

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Tunisian Beanie!

So I wanted a flat crocheted beanie, done in Tunisian. The only one I seemed able to find was done sideways in short rows, and I wanted one done bottom up (nothing against that pattern, it’s really a great pattern!) since I wanted it to look knit, with nice cushy Tunisian warmth!

So of course I had to write a pattern. I can’t make something and not write a pattern anymore. Which is just dandy in my book, since it gives me plenty to share with everyone! 😀

J hook-Tunisian hook

WW yarn-I used some old Red Heart that is freaky hot red, these pics don’t do it justice!

Sewing Needle

Ok, so mine came out a lil long, but I like it that way so it covers my ears. If you want it shorter, do less rows/work until piece measure 5 in.

I tried it on the bf too, and it fit him but was a lil tight. Which he doesn’t like, but if you want it bigger go up hook size/loosen your tension. 🙂

Note- Always skip the actual first stitch on the row, as this is akin to slipping the first stitch in knitting, and helps keep a neater edge in your work.

Return pass always yo & pull thru first loop, then yo & pull thru 2 loops across.

Tks=Tunisian Knit Stitch

Tks2tog=insert hook into 2 stitches, yo & pull up a loop. Decrease made.

Ch 60, pick up back humps across ch. Work a return pass.

Rows 1-20: Tks across sts. Work return pass. 60 sts (or work until piece measures 6 in)

Row 21: Tks in first 7 sts, tks2tog, [tks in 8 sts, tks2tog] repeat

[ ] across. Work return pass. 54 sts

Rows 22-23: Tks across. Work return pass.

Row 24: tks2tog [tks in next 7 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across, tks in last 6 sts. Work return pass. 48 sts

Rows 25-26: Tks across, work return pass.

Row 27: Tks in first 5 sts, tks2tog, [tks in next 6 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across, Work return pass. 42 sts

Rows 28-29: Tks across, work return pass.

Row 30: Tks2tog, [tks in next 5 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across, tks in last 5 sts. Work return pass, 36 sts

Row 31:Tks in first 3 sts, tks2tog [tks in next 4 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across. Work return pass. 30 sts

Row 32: Tks2tog, [tks in next 3 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across, tks in last 3 sts. Work return pass. 24 sts.

Row 33: Tks in first st, tks2tog, [tks in next 2 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ]  across. Work return pass. 18 sts

Row 34: Tks2tog, [tks in next st, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across. Work return pass. 12 sts

Row 35: Tks2tog across, tks in last st. Work return pass.  7 sts

Work a bind off row in tks, break yarn leaving long tail for sewing.

Thread tail onto needle, and go thru the front loops of each top stitch around, pulling tight to close up top.

Sew down side of hat. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Can’t wait for my hair to grow out 😛 thank goodness for hats!!

Cabled Cobwebs

Here’s the hat pattern I mentioned in my previous post. I really do love crocheted cables! And hats. Who doesn’t love instant gratification hats?

Cabled Cobwebs Hat

J hook

G hook

WW yarn- used some ancient acrylic for mine, maybe 3 oz worth

Magic loop

With J hook,

Ch 3, 2 dc into loop, ch 1, 3 dc into loop repeat this twice, ch 1, join to top of ch 3.

Round 1: Ch 1, fpdc around ch 3 and next 2 dc, ch 3, fpdc around next 3 dc sts, repeat this around to last 3 dc sts, fpdc around each st, ch 3, join to first fpdc.

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 fpdc around first fpdc, fpdc around next fpdc, 2 fpdc around next fpdc, ch 4 repeat this around, join to first fpdc.

Round 3:Ch 1, fpdc around first 2 fpdc sts, 2 fpdc around next fpdc st, fpdc around next 2 fpdc sts, ch 4 repeat this around, join to top of first fpdc.

Round 4: Ch 2, [fptrc around 3rd fpdc st, fptrc around 2nd fpdc st, fptrc around 1st fpdc st], ch , repeat [ ], ch 4 repeat this around, join to top of first fptrc.

Round 5: Ch 1, without untwisting cable of fptrc, fpdc around next 3 fptrc sts, ch 4 repeat this around, join to top of first fpdc.

Round 6: Ch 1, 2 fpdc in each fpdc st, ch 4 repeat this around, join to top of first fpdc.

Round 7:  repeat round 4

Round 8-9: repeat round 5

Round 10: Ch 2, [fptrc around 3rd fpdc st, fptrc around 2nd fpdc st, fptrc around 1st fpdc st], ch 4 repeat this around. Join to top of first fptrc

Repeat rounds 8-10 once more.

Repeat rounds 8-9 once more.

Next row: Switch to a G hook. Ch 2, dc in each st and ch around.  Join to first dc.

Next row: Ch 1, fpdc around first dc, skip next dc, fpdc around next dc repeat this around. Join to top of first fpdc.

Next row: Ch 1, fpdc around first fpdc, bpdc around next fpdc. Repeat this around. Join to top of first fpdc.

Break yarn, fasten off and weave in ends.


Wind Cowl, or, I’m a ninja!!

So Wyoming wind is quite terrible here. It can get well past -20 with wind chill at night…hell sometimes during the day. And with the bf working a delivery job out in the wind, he asked me to make him something to help stave off wind burn 😛 I figured a nice stretchy cowl was in order! (after several failed sizing attempts with balaclavas..urgh)

I look like a ninja! hehe. I used linked treble crochet to make it quickly but at the same time thick and less hole-y.

Hehehe! he looks like a looter from dead rising 2. 😛

Wind Cowl

K hook

WW Yarn-I used good ol red heart again. Maybe half a skein, though I’m pretty sure not even that much.

Stitches used:

Foundation double Crochet-good tutorial here: http://www.crochetme.com/glossary/foundation-double-crochet-fdc.aspx

Front Post/Back Post Double Crochet

Linked treble crochet-good tutorial here: http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-crochet-linked-treble-stitch-233299/

Working in foundation double crochet, do 45 foundation double crochet. (first ch 3 of foundation double crochet counts as first dc) Join to top of first double crochet.

Round 1: Ch 1, fpdc around first dc, bpdc around next. Repeat this around.  Join to ch 1. 45 sts

Round 2: Ch 3, yo & insert hook into 2nd ch, pull up a loop, yo & insert into 3rd ch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook into first dc, yo & pull up a loop, finish as normal treble crochet. This starts off your round of linked treble crochet stitches. Work rest of round in linked treble crochet. Join to top of ch 3.  45 sts.

Repeat round 2 seven more times.

Next row: Ch 2, hdc around in the back loops only. Join to top of first hdc.

You’re now going to break your yarn, leaving a nice long tail to sew. There will be gaps in between  where you joined the linked treble crochet rounds down to the post stitch ribbing. Thread your yarn tail onto a sewing needle and stitch sides together. I stitch similar to a mattress stitch, so I can have a reversible cowl.

See? Gaps. Bad for blocking wind.

After sewing up the gaps. Much better!

Either side can be the right side. If you like the looks of the dashes from the linked trebles, use that, or the other side is completely smooth. Your choice!

Weave in ends. Show off your ninja skills.


Circe Cardi

So I’ve become obsessive passionate about pattern writing lately. And rather ambitious too! I decided I wanted a cardigan, but the patterns I tried were working too slowly for me, or required too much thought on my part. Go laziness!

I wanted something that was simple, worked up quickly, and was comfortable. And didn’t take 4 skeins of yarn.  I used Red Heart mostly because it cooperates pretty easily for just about anything. I think I’ll try some Caron or Patons next time though.

I wanted a really simple-to-figure neck shaping, so I thought a circular yoke would be the way to go. It works awesomely! This pattern is really easy to adjust-in fact I plan to mod it to fit my bf, and turn it into a hoodie with a zipper. Just make your starting chain long enough to wrap loosely around your neck (or whoever is gonna wear it), and work in a similar pattern to what I’ve got here.  I want to make my lil girl one, and she’s 16 months so I know this style cardi should work well for any adjustments you’d like to make!

Also, if the ribbing is too wonky for you, add a different edging or leave it off if you want!

I haven’t gotten buttons on mine yet. I’ll be getting them later today, but I wanted to get this up here because I was excited and impatient. I’ll have my bf take a pic of me in it buttons and all later on.

Circe Cardi

K hook

I hook

2 skeins of Red Heart WW Yarn

Special Stitches-

Camel Stitch

Linked Double Crochet

When doing the first dc of a row, make it a linked dc using the starting 2-ch to close the gap. Insert the hook into the 2nd ch, pull up a loop, insert into the st, pull up a loop, yo & pull thru 2 loops, yo & pull thru 2 loops.

Always work first dc in 2nd st. The turning ch 2 always counts as first dc. Work last dc in top of turning ch 2.

I recommend doing a Russian Join to join a new skein of yarn. It makes for less knots and weaving in! A very good photo tutorial can be found at http://twistyarnshop.blogspot.com/2009/05/russian-join.html

Ch 52

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook in the back loop and in each ch across. 50 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 2nd st (ch 2 counts as first dc), dc to end. 50 sts

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. dc in 2nd st from hook, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat * to * around, dc in last 2 sts. 66 sts

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around, dc in last 3 sts. 87 sts

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 87 sts

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st*  repeat *to* around to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. 108 sts.

Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 108 sts.

Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. 129 sts

Row 9:  Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 129 sts

Row 10: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 17 sts, skip 27 sts, join w dc to next st, dc in next 39 sts, skip 27 sts, join to next st w dc, dc in last 17 sts. Sleeves made!

Rows 11-29: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st across. 75 sts (Do less rows if you want a shorter cardigan, more for a longer one)

Switch to an I hook

You’ll be working the edging along the front sides & neck now.

Row 1: Ch 2. Do not turn. Working along front right side, hdc up front side, placing 2 hdc in right top corner, along neckline, placing 2 hdc in left top corner and down to bottom of front left side (46 hdc up right side, 50 hdc along neckline, 46 hdc down left side). 142 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Work camel stitch (hdc in the back hump of previous hdc) back along row 1 to right side,  hdc in first 3 sts,* ch 2, skip 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts* repeat *to* six times, hdc in last st. 142 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around in the back loop only in each st and ch around. 142 sts.

Next, you’ll attach the bottom ribbing. There is an excellent video online if you need a visual tutorial for this part: http://www.monkeysee.com/play/10396-crocheted-ribbing-attaching-the-ribbing

Still using the I hook, you’ll start with a chain, work sc back down the chain, sl st in the next st, sl st in the next st, then sc in the back loop back down the sts you just made, skipping the 2 sl sts.

Ch 7

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (6 sts) Sl st in end of next row, sl st in end of next row.

Row 2: Skip 2 sl sts, sc in the back loop of each of the 6 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the back loop of each of the 6 sts, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 around bottom edge of cardigan.

Break yarn, fasten off.

Arms:

Round 1: With K hook, join yarn at armpit and ch 2, dc 29 sts around arm. Join to first dc. 30 sts

Rounds 2-7: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc around,  join w sl st to top of ch 2. 30 sts

Round 8: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc to last 2 dc, dc2tog, join w sl st to top of ch 2. 28 sts

Rounds 9-10: Ch 2, dc around. 28 sts

Round 11: Repeat round 8. 26 sts

Rounds 12-15:Ch 2, dc around. 26 sts

Round 16: repeat round 8. 24 sts

Round 17: Ch 2, dc around. 24 sts

Round 18: Repeat round 8. 22 sts

Round 19: Ch 2, dc around. 22 sts

Round 20: repeat round 8. 20 sts

Round 21: Ch 2, dc around. 20 sts

Round 22: Repeat round 8. 18 sts.

Rounds 23-24: Ch 2, dc around. 18 sts

Switch to I hook

Now you’re going to work a ribbed cuff on the arm, as for the previously made ribbed edging.

Row 1: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (8 sc), sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Row 2: Skip 2 sl sts, sc in the back loop of sc sts. 8 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loop of each st, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 around cuff to beginning, place last sl st in bottom of first part of cuff, skip 2 sl sts, sc in back loops of each sc, turn, do not ch, line up edges of cuff & sl st thru back loop of first st & first st of opposite edge, sl st down sts in this manner to sleeve, break yarn & fasten off.

Work other arm the same.

Sew buttons onto left front side.

Block if desired.

Comfy and cozy! Great for this awful arctic weather we’ve been having here lately! Did I mention it’s fast? Great weekend project!

Emerald, a French Press Cozy

Oh how happy I am to have the holidays over. Though, admittedly, I still have gifts to make. It wasn’t a good year for me in regards to time and preparation…

I did get a nice little French Press with a gift card I received. And let me tell you, it makes a damn good cup of coffee. If you haven’t tried one, I would highly recommend it!

It does, however, cool kind of quickly. So I figured a little cozy was in order! 🙂

I did it in Tunisian so it would be a little bit thicker. We’ll see how well it works-if nothing else I’ll make a bigger cozy tea kettle style to put over the whole thing!

As usual, I decided I should share this pattern with you. I’m still in a giving mood 🙂

Emerald French Press Cozy

H hook

WW yarn

Ch 20. Pick up back loops across chain.

Work Return Pass– yo, pull thru one loop, *yo, pull thru two loops* repeat *to* across.

Row 1- *skip first st, tss in next st, tss in skipped st* repeat *to* across to last st, tss in last st. Work return pass.

Close up on stitch detail. You’re making a cross/x stitch

Repeat row 1 until edges just touch around your French Press.

Next row (buttonhole row)- *skip first st, tss in next st, tss in skipped st* twice, [skip next st, tss in next st, tss in skipped st, pull loop last made thru one loop, yo]  Repeat *to* 3 times more, repeat [to] once  more, repeat *to* twice more, tss in last st. Work return pass.

Repeat row 1 once more.

Last row-work a bind off row, working in the stitch pattern *skip first st, tss in next st, pull thru one loop, tss in skipped st, pull thru one loop* across to last st, tss in last st, pull thru loop.

Finish off, weave in ends.

Sew buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

As I sit here watching snow fall, I’m thinking I need to make a mug cozy. I’ll probably just have hot drinks in my hands for the next few weeks!

Amethyst Hat

Note: I decided to add some wristwarmers to match. Their pattern will be up shortly. 🙂

I’m still on my hat kick, and have been playing around with cables lately, so of course one thing led to another and another hat was born!  Just a simple hat with a cable really, but since I rarely see crochet cabled hats I thought I’d post this one.  I made it a tad on the large side since I dislike hat hair 😛

Amethyst Hat

H hook

I Hook

WW Yarn-I used Red Heart

Using magic loop, 10 dc into loop. Join with sl st to first dc, ch 3.

Round 1: 2 dc in each st around. Join to top ch of first ch 3. Ch 3. 20 sts

Round 2: *1 dc in first st, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around. Ch 3. 30 sts

Round 3: *1 dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around. Ch 3. 40 sts

Round 4: *1 dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around. Ch 3. 50 sts

Round 5: *1 dc in first 4 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around. Ch 3. 60 sts

Round 6: dc around. Ch 3. 60 sts

Round 7: dc in first 30 sts, then start cable: fptrc around next 4 sts. Dc to end. Ch 3

Round 8: repeat round 7

Round 9: dc in first 30 sts, fptrc in 4th fptrc from last round (furthest from you) , then in the 3rd on, then the 2nd, then the 1st. You’re twisting the cable by doing this. Dc to end.

not the best picture of the cable…sorry :p

Round 10: dc in first 30sts, fptrc in first fptrc from last round, making sure to keep the twist. Fptrc around next 3 sts, dc to end.

Repeat rounds 7-10 once more.

another picture of the cable. Again, sorry for the quality.

Switch to H hook, repeat round 7 once more, only do fpdc instead of fptrc when you come upon the  cable.

Next round: *fpdc around first dc, bpdc around next dc* repeat *to* around.

Fasten off

Enjoy! ❤

A new hat, a new stitch?

In an effort to do Tunisian in the round in an easy fashion, I played  around with crochet stitches the other night..this resulted in me trying out a hat, which I think came out looking good!….though, decidedly better on my boyfriend…so he got a new hat instead of me.

My plan of attack was to make a crochet stitch that really resembled a knit stitch, much like the Tunisian knit stitch. But without the hassle of working Tunisian in the round..which I have yet to really master.

What I did was to make a foundation row, much like Tunisian: a row of single crochet, followed by a row of spike stitches. These spike stitches make it possible to work the following rows much like Tunisian knit-you insert the hook thru the v made by the spike stitch, pull up a loop, then yo and pull thru the two on the hook.  Essentially, a single crochet made into the spike stitch. This pulls the stitch around, making them look like knit stitches! YAY! The only problem I’ve had so far is making my tension too tight…that’s a giant pain in the arse cuz it makes the next row really difficult to work! So, I’ve used larger hooks than usual to get myself to loosen up. I’m working on a second hat just for myself, since my first one looks pretty darn weird with my short hair.

Here’s D with his new hat:

He looks so happy, huh?

Here’s a close up of the hat so you can see the stitches:

I promise I’ll put up some better pics than with my phone….I just was feelin lazy and didn’t want to charge my camera battery. hehe

Anywho, if you’d like to make this hat, I’m adding the pattern! I’ll add the other one once it’s finished too. I really would welcome some feedback on this, as I have yet to see anyone else do this! If someone has and it has a name, cool! If not, I’ve dubbed it the knit single crochet, or ksc.

P.S.-easiest way to insert the hook is slightly from right to left thru the center (reverse that if you’re a leftie)

 

Materials

F hook

H hook

Worsted weight yarn in

Main Color-MC

Contrast Color-CC

 

With MC, ch 11

Sc in second ch from hook, and then across. 10 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 1: sc in back loop only in each st across. 10 sts.

Repeat this row until band is about 19” (I have a big head) Do no ch 1 after last row

Pic of ribbing:

Joining:  Without twisting, line up ends together and join each matching st with a slip st.

Switch to CC and H hook.Ch 1

Pick up by sc 75 sts. Join with sl st to first sc. Ch 1

Round 1: Sc around, join with sl st. 75 sts. Ch 1

Round 2: Spike st in each st(making sure to do so fairly loosely. Important for next round) going under each sc around. Join w sl st. 75 sts.  Ch 1

Round 3: Here is the fun round! You will sc around, BUT YOU HAVE TO INSERT YOUR HOOK INTO THE V OF SPIKE STITCH. You’re essentially making the knit stitch of Tunisian crochet. Make sure to keep tension loose-it helps a lot. Trust me-it sucks if you do things too tightly. This will make your stitches look like knitting!! Without having to do Tunisian in the round!! Whoopee!! Hmm…I have yet to find anyone else who’d done this, so for this pattern at least I’m going to call this stitch Knit Single Crochet or ksc.

Ksc around, join with sl st.  75 sts. Ch 1

Repeat round 3 twice more.

Switch to MC, and work 4 rounds of ksc.

Work in this pattern so that you have 5 stripes-3 in CC, 2 in MC.

Start decreases

Round 1: In MC,  ch 1 and *ksc 13, then ksc2tog (just as a reg sc dec basically)* repeat * to * around. 70 sts.

Round 2: ch 1, *ksc 12, ksc2tog* repeat * to * around. 65 sts. note-when working into a ksc that was a decrease, insert hook into both v’s made by the decrease.

Round 3: ch 1, *ksc 11, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 60 sts.

Round 4: ch 1, *ksc 10, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 55 sts.

Round 5: Switch to CC, ch 1, *ksc 9, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 50 sts.

Round 6: Ch 1, *ksc 8, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 45 sts.

Round 7: Ch 1, *ksc 7, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 40 sts

Round 8:  Ch 1, *ksc 6, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 35 sts

Round 9: Switch to MC, ch1, *ksc 5, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 30sts

Round 10: Ch 1, *ksc 4, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 25 sts

Round 11: Ch 1, *ksc 3, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 20 sts

Round 12: Ch 1, *ksc 2, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 15 sts

Round 13: Ch 1, *ksc 1, ksc2tog* repeat *to* around. 10 sts

Round 14: Ch 1, ksc2tog around. 5 sts

Break yarn leaving a tail for sewing.  Thread tail into sewing needle, and thread thru front loops of sts, pulling tight to close hole.  Finish off, and weave in ends.

I was so thrilled! 🙂 Please tell me how this works out for you if you try it, even if you just try out the stitch. I really would like some feedback on this!

Knit Anti Cat Towel

The kittehs are onto me…this one took a few what with working on my neckwarmer (pattern can be found at http://weerobin.wordpress.com/2010/09/18/pomona-neckwarmer/) and chasing kittehs away from yarn, needles, my hands, my feet….yeah. They are tricksy! And far too smart 😛

So here is Anti Cat Towel #2-the knit version.

Beware! Knitting around kitties can be hazardous to a towel’s health.

Sergeant Tobias Fuzzyboots  III aka Toby. Aka bane of towels.

Size 7 needles

WW Cotton yarn-I used more peaches n creme. One skein and lil bit more from another.

CO 51 st

Row 1 purl

Row 2 slip first st purlwise with yarn in back,* k 4, slip next st purlwisewith yarn in back* repeat across  row, end with a slip.

Row 3 purl

Row 4 repeat row 2

Row 5 purl

Row 6 repeat row 2

Row 7 knit

Repeat rows 2-7 for desired length.

Start decrease rows:

Row 1:  *K2, k2tog* to last 3 st, k1, k2tog.

Row 2: K across.

Row 3: *K1, K2tog*to last 2 st, k2.

Row 4: K across.

Row 5: K2tog across.

Row 6: K across.

Row 7: K2tog to last st, k1. 7 sts remain.

Work in garter on these 7 sts for 2 in.

Work buttonhole row: K3, BO 3, K1.

Next row: K2, CO 2, K2.

Work 2 more rows of garter then BO. Weave in ends.

Sew button onto towel and watch kittehs frown!!

Poor kitties. They do not like being twarted.

Detail on the waffle-y stitch.

Anti cat dish towel

Ya know, I love my cats. But they love destroying things. On a daily basis. Especially my kitchen towels draped over the oven door.   I know I’m the one who’s mistaken; it’s not a towel but a throne for fuzzy cat butt. My apologies to kittehs everywhere. Buuut I’m tired of it sooo I’m working to make a bunch of hanging towels instead. And here’s the first pattern I whipped up!

The Anti Cat Dish Towel

2 skeins of peaches n cream (or ww cotton yarn)

H hook

Button

Ch 46

Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc across.  Ch 3, turn.

Skip first dc, dc in next st. *fpdc around next 2 st, dc in next st.* repeat * to * till end, dc in last st. Ch 3, turn.

Skip first st, dc in next st.  *fpdc in next st, dc in next 2 st* repeat * to * across row to last st, fpdc around last st, end with a dc in turning chain. Ch 3, turn.

Skip first st, dc in next  st, *fpdc around next 2 st, dc in next st* repeat * to * across row to last st, fpdc around st, dc in turning ch. Ch 3, turn.

Repeat last 2 rows for desired length.

At last row, ch 1 and turn.

Sc decrease over  first two st.  Repeat across row. Ch 1, turn.

Repeat this decrease until 6 st remain (you will have one extra st at the end of a row, just sc into it and turn)

Ch 1, turn. Sc across 6 st. Ch 2, turn.

*Dc in first st, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * for 15 rows. Ch 2, turn.

Next row for m buttonhole: Dc in first st, sc in next st, ch  2, skip 2 sts, dc in next st, sc in last st. Ch 2, turn.

Work in pattern again for  2 more rows.

Next row: Work 3 sc dec for a remainder of 3 st, then finish off.

Sew button onto towel, and you’re done!

*updated-now with pics!! cats, of course, were nowhere to be found for some kitteh photography. go figure.