Tunisian shorties!

Tunisian shorties! Hooray!

I’ve only seen one pattern for tunisian longies/shorties, so I’ve been wanting to do this for a while 🙂 I’m pretty excited about it! I’ll be making a second pair for DD that are cotton, so she can have some comfy summer shorts too.

These are pretty trim, but I’ve put in plenty of short rows for cloth booties.(A note on that-if you do 2 colors like I did, you will have A LOT of ends to weave in 😛 just to warn you.. ) It’s worked top down, in the round using a double ended hook. It’s my favorite method for tunisian in the round and there are some good videos of it on youtube if you need. You’ll need 2 working skeins of yarn, hence why I used 2 different colors..easy way to make it interesting,albeit a bit of a pain for weaving in ends 😉

Baby booty! Without a cloth dipe, so a lil saggy.

Size is for a toddler, about a 2T. and I’ll have to find my notes on rise and such. Waist is about 19 in, rise 22 in give or take. Feel free to add more or take away in the short rows as you need.


Size H double ended hook. I used one that was 10 in long, and it worked well for me

WW wool yarn in 2 skeins-I used Patons, which is also on the lighter side of worsted, just to let you know. Note-wordpress is apparently really special when it comes to changing font, and I wrote the pattern notes on my DH’s computer, which does not have word on it, and when I copied and pasted it made my font tiny and apparently impossible to change without knowledge of html. sigh.

TSS-Tunisian Simple Stitch

Increase-Work an increase by inserting hook into next horizontal bar after the designated number of TSS sts (ie insert into next horizontal bar after the 10th tss st)

ch 60 with first skein, sl st into back hump of first ch to join into round.

Work a basic foundation row to get you set up (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQfp88HI2WY for a great video on how to start and work in tunisian in the round)

Rounds 1-5: TSS around

Round 6: Increase every 10th st around. 66 sts

Round 7: Work even around, placing (if you haven’t done so already) one stitch marker at beginning (I’ll designate this marker 1), and one stitch marker halfway(I’ll designate this marker 2). Half of your sts will be the front side, half will be the back side, and the markers help this out 🙂

Next you’ll start working in some short rows on the back side as you work

Round 8: Work even to 10 sts before end (1st marker), work return pass to 10 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Round 9: Work even to 9 sts before end (1st marker), work return pass to 9 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Rounds 10-12: Work even around

Rounds 13-14: Repeat rounds 8-9

Round 15: Work even to 8 sts before 1st marker,return pass to 8 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Round 16: Work even to 7 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 7 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to end

Rounds 17-21: Work even

Round 22: This row will have a short row section on the back side- Work even to 6 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 6 sts before 2nd marker,  work forward pass to 4 sts before 1st marker, return pass to 4 sts before 2nd marker, forward pass to 1 st before 1st marker, return pass to 1 st before 2nd marker, forward pass to end, return pass to 2nd marker, forward pass to end.

Rounds 23-24: Work even


I used an extra bit of yarn, so I didn’t have to break my working yarn. I also got lazy and did it in one color 😛 haha! It’s hard to spot while she’s wearing them so I don’t mind, and neither does she 😉

Find middlemost 11 sts on the backside. With rs facing, join yarn to first of 11 sts and work a tss forward pass. Return pass as normal.

Row 1: tss across. return pass 11 sts

Row 2: Tss to last 2 sts, tss2tog, return pass to last 2 sts (3 loops on hook), yo and pull thru all 3 loops on hook. 9 sts

Rows 3-4: repeat row 1

Repeat rows 1-4 once more

Next row: tss across, do not return pass!

Find middlemost 6 sts on front sides

Graft the gusset to these 6 sts using your favorite method-I used kitchener actually! The 6 sts are still ‘live’ so I worked it just the same as knit sts. 🙂 knitty.com has a good photo tutorial if you are unfamiliar with it.


If you did not break your yarn, this first leg is slightly easier. This should also be the right leg. Grab up your yarn again, work a forward pass (13 sts) to gusset, pick up 10 sts along side of gusset, forward pass to end (11 sts) You should have 34 sts.

Rounds 1-9: work even around.

Round 10: work a bind off row. Note-if not adding a trim or ribbing, I’d recommend binding off in tps (tunisian purl st) to help control curling.

Attach yarn to other leg at marker, and work as for right leg.

Work whatever typing of ribbing you like at the top of shorties-I picked up sts and worked 1×1 ribbing in knitting for 6 rows. You could do slip stitch ribbing in crochet, fpdc/bpdc ribbing, sc ribbing, or a drawstring of some kind. All up to you!

Make the legs longer and turn these into longies! 🙂 Make them yours!

I’ll post more pics after I try out a cotton pair too. 🙂 enjoy! And please buzz me with any questions you may have.


Super Bum Soaker!

I hardly ever see woolly soakers done in Tunisian. When I was first learning Tunisian I thought it’d be perfect for a soaker!! Super thick=super protection, right? Especially for naptime/nighttime usage!

Thus a super cushy soaker was born! And it is a poofy beastie, as I usually am over zealous about DD’s naptime/nightime cloth diapers. Too many leaks..

Mine still needs to lanolized, but I’m pretty happy about it! Next I’m going to make one not quite so big so it can cover trimmer diapers a little more nicely.

And of course I’m sharing the pattern! 🙂

Super Bum Soaker

Size L-XL Waist is about 19-20″, rise about 19″


WW wool yarn-I used Paton’s Classic, along with some unlabeled yarn for the waistband

H Hook-regular crochet hook

KHook-Must be Tunisian hook

TKS-Tunisian knit stitch

INC-Increase by inserting hook into very next horizontal bar (right before next vertical bar to be worked) yo & pull up a loop.

With h hook, ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from loop and each across. 7 sts

Row 1: ch 1, turn. Sc in back loop only.

Repeat row 1 30 more times. Back waistband made

Switch to K hook.

Pick up 33 sts along waistband. Work return pass. 34 sts.

Pic of work after row 2..ish.

Row 1: tks in first st, [inc, tks in next 2 sts] repeat [] across, tks in last 2 sts. Work return pass. 50 sts

Rows 2-4: tks across. Work return pass.

Row 5: tks to last 5 sts, then work a return pass back to the first 5 sts, tks to end, work a return pass all the way back. Short row section made. See following pics:

Coming up on end of short on the forward pass to the end. See the jump there? We’ll get rid of it and any holes by doing the following:

Insert hook into both the end stitch and the top of the next horizontal bar, yo & pull up a loop.

See? Pulls it nice and tight together. When you return pass, you do nothing unusual. But, when working the next forward pass, you’ll want to cover up the gap made at the other end, doing a similar thing:

Gap. No good! We’ll do about the same thing here. Insert your hook into the horizontal bar below, then into the next stitch, yo & pull up a loop.

Pulls together nicely! You can skip this if it’s too confusing, or if you aren’t bothered by the gaps.

Row 6-11: tks across, work return pass.

Row 12: repeat row 5

Rows 13-14: tks across, work return pass.

Row 15: tks to last 2 sts, tks2tog, return pass to last 2 sts(3 loops on hook), yo & pull through last 2 sts (pull through all 3 loops). 48 sts

Row 16: tks across, work return pass.

Row 17: repeat row 15. 46 sts

Row 18: work another short row, going to last 3 sts of either side.

R0w 19: repeat row 15. 44 sts

Row 20: tks across, work return pass.

Rows 21-28: repeat row 15. 28 sts

Rows 29-36: tks across, work return pass.

Row 37: inc, tks to last st, inc. 30 sts

Rows 38-42 : repeat row 37-should end with 40 sts

Rows 43-55: tks across, work return pass. 40 sts

Row 56: tks in first 7 sts, [tks2tog, tks in next 6 sts] repeat [] across to last 6 sts, tks in next 4, tks2tog in last 2 sts. Return pass to last 2 sts(3 loops on hook), yo & pull through last 2 sts (all 3 loops). 34 sts

Row 57: tks across, work return pass.

Bind off in tks.

Switch to H hook, Attach yarn to right side of top of work (rs facing). If you don’t switch to the opposite side, you’ll get a weird edge, more so if you work a second color in the waistband as I did.

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each down, sl st in next 2 sts

Turn, skip sl sts, sc in back loops only.

Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loops only, sl st in next 2 sts

Repeat this across the top to make front of waistband.

Sorry that it’s fairly dark. This one was taken at night! But here’s the cover lying flat.

Fold cover and line up sides

All sewn up!

Sew up sides using favorite method-I use basically a mattress stitch.


With H hook, join yarn to leg opening.

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch down, sl st in next 2 sts. 10 sts

Skip 2 sl sts, sc in back loops only, ch 1 and turn.

Sc in back loops only, sl st in next 2 sts.

Work in this fashion around leg opening, then sl st sides together.

Repeat for other leg.

Or, do a simple crochet leg opening, or a knitted rib, or whatever you prefer.

Lanolize and put on your lil one!

Pocket Diapers!!

So, I still keep trying to work cloth diapers into my DD’s diapering system. The bf is very reluctant to do so, so I want to try to find easier solutions for him. I got a new diaper cover from one of my local grocery stores, strangely enough..a Cutey Baby Wrap, which we’ll be trying out too.

Diapers are pretty pricey though, and since I love being a diy-er, I wanted to try making some pocket diapers.  With printer out of ink though, I had to try and draft a pattern myself, and well..I’m certainly not the best seamstress yet so my edges are kinda funky. haha! But, as long as they function I could care less.

All I did was measure my DD, waist and rise (rise is from belly button down between legs and up the back) and then doodle on some newspaper until I got a shape I liked. Referenced a few of her cloth diapers for it, and left a 1/4-1/2 seam allowance. I used some fleece for  the outer, and t-shirt for the inner.

I especially like how pointy my edges seem to have gotten…dang! haha. So have no fear if you can’t sew. Neither can I, and I got it just fine! I just cut my two pieces (make sure to put the sides you want facing out pointed inward when you sew) and I pinned around, making sure to leave about 2″ open on the back side so you can stuff your insert into it.

I may topstitch around these too, but eh they seem alright just with that sewing and turning. Did I mention I’m lazy?

I used 1/4″ elastic on the legs. I tacked down one end with a zigzag, then streeeetched it tight and sewed down, tacking it down well on the other end. I did not make them a casing (lazy). We’ll see if I need to add that as well…

I am just using some of DD’s prefolds as inserts, as they fit quite nicely actually! (she’s a toddler of 19 months atm) just folded into thirds and stuffed in there.

We’ll put these to the test (I’ve made 2 so far) to see how they hold up. Also what the bf’s verdict is on them. I’m going to get some of the disposable & flushable liners for bf’s sake too.

I did not add any snaps or velcro btw… 1)couldn’t find the damn velcro and 2) I can’t find a snap press like I want anywhere near me. I want to add some snaps once I can get a press. Probably going to be from ebay.

I’ll update on how these are working out.

UPDATE: Huzzah! I tried one out on her last night for bedtime..figured that’d be a good stress test. I can fit 2 of her prefolds into one, and then put one of her covers over the whole thing. NO LEAKS!! Though she managed to take the whole thing off first thing upon waking this morning. 😛 Velcro is quickly a no go for me. So yeah!! I’ll be making more of these 🙂 and working on some longies for her to cover her booty. hehe.