Super Bum Soaker!

I hardly ever see woolly soakers done in Tunisian. When I was first learning Tunisian I thought it’d be perfect for a soaker!! Super thick=super protection, right? Especially for naptime/nighttime usage!

Thus a super cushy soaker was born! And it is a poofy beastie, as I usually am over zealous about DD’s naptime/nightime cloth diapers. Too many leaks..

Mine still needs to lanolized, but I’m pretty happy about it! Next I’m going to make one not quite so big so it can cover trimmer diapers a little more nicely.

And of course I’m sharing the pattern! 🙂

Super Bum Soaker

Size L-XL Waist is about 19-20″, rise about 19″


WW wool yarn-I used Paton’s Classic, along with some unlabeled yarn for the waistband

H Hook-regular crochet hook

KHook-Must be Tunisian hook

TKS-Tunisian knit stitch

INC-Increase by inserting hook into very next horizontal bar (right before next vertical bar to be worked) yo & pull up a loop.

With h hook, ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from loop and each across. 7 sts

Row 1: ch 1, turn. Sc in back loop only.

Repeat row 1 30 more times. Back waistband made

Switch to K hook.

Pick up 33 sts along waistband. Work return pass. 34 sts.

Pic of work after row 2..ish.

Row 1: tks in first st, [inc, tks in next 2 sts] repeat [] across, tks in last 2 sts. Work return pass. 50 sts

Rows 2-4: tks across. Work return pass.

Row 5: tks to last 5 sts, then work a return pass back to the first 5 sts, tks to end, work a return pass all the way back. Short row section made. See following pics:

Coming up on end of short on the forward pass to the end. See the jump there? We’ll get rid of it and any holes by doing the following:

Insert hook into both the end stitch and the top of the next horizontal bar, yo & pull up a loop.

See? Pulls it nice and tight together. When you return pass, you do nothing unusual. But, when working the next forward pass, you’ll want to cover up the gap made at the other end, doing a similar thing:

Gap. No good! We’ll do about the same thing here. Insert your hook into the horizontal bar below, then into the next stitch, yo & pull up a loop.

Pulls together nicely! You can skip this if it’s too confusing, or if you aren’t bothered by the gaps.

Row 6-11: tks across, work return pass.

Row 12: repeat row 5

Rows 13-14: tks across, work return pass.

Row 15: tks to last 2 sts, tks2tog, return pass to last 2 sts(3 loops on hook), yo & pull through last 2 sts (pull through all 3 loops). 48 sts

Row 16: tks across, work return pass.

Row 17: repeat row 15. 46 sts

Row 18: work another short row, going to last 3 sts of either side.

R0w 19: repeat row 15. 44 sts

Row 20: tks across, work return pass.

Rows 21-28: repeat row 15. 28 sts

Rows 29-36: tks across, work return pass.

Row 37: inc, tks to last st, inc. 30 sts

Rows 38-42 : repeat row 37-should end with 40 sts

Rows 43-55: tks across, work return pass. 40 sts

Row 56: tks in first 7 sts, [tks2tog, tks in next 6 sts] repeat [] across to last 6 sts, tks in next 4, tks2tog in last 2 sts. Return pass to last 2 sts(3 loops on hook), yo & pull through last 2 sts (all 3 loops). 34 sts

Row 57: tks across, work return pass.

Bind off in tks.

Switch to H hook, Attach yarn to right side of top of work (rs facing). If you don’t switch to the opposite side, you’ll get a weird edge, more so if you work a second color in the waistband as I did.

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each down, sl st in next 2 sts

Turn, skip sl sts, sc in back loops only.

Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loops only, sl st in next 2 sts

Repeat this across the top to make front of waistband.

Sorry that it’s fairly dark. This one was taken at night! But here’s the cover lying flat.

Fold cover and line up sides

All sewn up!

Sew up sides using favorite method-I use basically a mattress stitch.


With H hook, join yarn to leg opening.

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch down, sl st in next 2 sts. 10 sts

Skip 2 sl sts, sc in back loops only, ch 1 and turn.

Sc in back loops only, sl st in next 2 sts.

Work in this fashion around leg opening, then sl st sides together.

Repeat for other leg.

Or, do a simple crochet leg opening, or a knitted rib, or whatever you prefer.

Lanolize and put on your lil one!


Pocket Diapers!!

So, I still keep trying to work cloth diapers into my DD’s diapering system. The bf is very reluctant to do so, so I want to try to find easier solutions for him. I got a new diaper cover from one of my local grocery stores, strangely enough..a Cutey Baby Wrap, which we’ll be trying out too.

Diapers are pretty pricey though, and since I love being a diy-er, I wanted to try making some pocket diapers.  With printer out of ink though, I had to try and draft a pattern myself, and well..I’m certainly not the best seamstress yet so my edges are kinda funky. haha! But, as long as they function I could care less.

All I did was measure my DD, waist and rise (rise is from belly button down between legs and up the back) and then doodle on some newspaper until I got a shape I liked. Referenced a few of her cloth diapers for it, and left a 1/4-1/2 seam allowance. I used some fleece for  the outer, and t-shirt for the inner.

I especially like how pointy my edges seem to have gotten…dang! haha. So have no fear if you can’t sew. Neither can I, and I got it just fine! I just cut my two pieces (make sure to put the sides you want facing out pointed inward when you sew) and I pinned around, making sure to leave about 2″ open on the back side so you can stuff your insert into it.

I may topstitch around these too, but eh they seem alright just with that sewing and turning. Did I mention I’m lazy?

I used 1/4″ elastic on the legs. I tacked down one end with a zigzag, then streeeetched it tight and sewed down, tacking it down well on the other end. I did not make them a casing (lazy). We’ll see if I need to add that as well…

I am just using some of DD’s prefolds as inserts, as they fit quite nicely actually! (she’s a toddler of 19 months atm) just folded into thirds and stuffed in there.

We’ll put these to the test (I’ve made 2 so far) to see how they hold up. Also what the bf’s verdict is on them. I’m going to get some of the disposable & flushable liners for bf’s sake too.

I did not add any snaps or velcro btw… 1)couldn’t find the damn velcro and 2) I can’t find a snap press like I want anywhere near me. I want to add some snaps once I can get a press. Probably going to be from ebay.

I’ll update on how these are working out.

UPDATE: Huzzah! I tried one out on her last night for bedtime..figured that’d be a good stress test. I can fit 2 of her prefolds into one, and then put one of her covers over the whole thing. NO LEAKS!! Though she managed to take the whole thing off first thing upon waking this morning. 😛 Velcro is quickly a no go for me. So yeah!! I’ll be making more of these 🙂 and working on some longies for her to cover her booty. hehe.

That 70s Slouch

I really love slouch hats..I do. 🙂

This is an easy one to whip up, and I plan on making a couple more like it! Some for baby girl too. I think she needs one in a nice yellow color..

I’m going to add a flower to mine, I’m just lazy and haven’t sewn it on yet. Pics are lousy until then too, as I finished this up at night.

Look at that orange!! Bout the same color as my funky wallpaper in my kitchen. I just got new dishes the same color. hehe.

J hook

F hook

WW yarn-I used red heart in ‘carrot’ if you’re wondering.


Working in a spiral, so mark beginning of rounds if you’d like. No joining, just keep on keepin on!

10 dc into magic loop-pull tight to close.

Round 1: 2 dc in each st. 20 sts

Round 2: [1 dc in first st, 2 dc in next st] around. 30 sts

Round 3: [1 dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 40 sts

Round 4: [1 dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 50 sts

Round 5: [1 dc in first 9 sts, 2 dc in next st] around. 55 sts

Work even on these stitches until length desired. My hat’s pretty slouchy.. I think I did 6 rows. Yes, I did. Sorry, had to count.

Then switch to F hook, sl st in next st, and then work some ribbing around hat!

Ch 7, turn, hdc in 3rd st from hook and each down, sl st in next 2 sts on hat.

Row 1: Turn, skip 2 sl sts and hdc in back loop only.

Row 2: ch 2, turn and hdc in back loop only back down, sl st in next 2 sts along hat.

Repeat these 2 rows around hat, then either sl st sides together or sew together. (see my circe cardi pattern for more on ribbing worked this way)

The flower is a dark turquoise blue..Roxy may get a peace sign on hers. Or a flower. not sure yet..


Tunisian Beanie!

So I wanted a flat crocheted beanie, done in Tunisian. The only one I seemed able to find was done sideways in short rows, and I wanted one done bottom up (nothing against that pattern, it’s really a great pattern!) since I wanted it to look knit, with nice cushy Tunisian warmth!

So of course I had to write a pattern. I can’t make something and not write a pattern anymore. Which is just dandy in my book, since it gives me plenty to share with everyone! 😀

J hook-Tunisian hook

WW yarn-I used some old Red Heart that is freaky hot red, these pics don’t do it justice!

Sewing Needle

Ok, so mine came out a lil long, but I like it that way so it covers my ears. If you want it shorter, do less rows/work until piece measure 5 in.

I tried it on the bf too, and it fit him but was a lil tight. Which he doesn’t like, but if you want it bigger go up hook size/loosen your tension. 🙂

Note- Always skip the actual first stitch on the row, as this is akin to slipping the first stitch in knitting, and helps keep a neater edge in your work.

Return pass always yo & pull thru first loop, then yo & pull thru 2 loops across.

Tks=Tunisian Knit Stitch

Tks2tog=insert hook into 2 stitches, yo & pull up a loop. Decrease made.

Ch 60, pick up back humps across ch. Work a return pass.

Rows 1-20: Tks across sts. Work return pass. 60 sts (or work until piece measures 6 in)

Row 21: Tks in first 7 sts, tks2tog, [tks in 8 sts, tks2tog] repeat

[ ] across. Work return pass. 54 sts

Rows 22-23: Tks across. Work return pass.

Row 24: tks2tog [tks in next 7 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across, tks in last 6 sts. Work return pass. 48 sts

Rows 25-26: Tks across, work return pass.

Row 27: Tks in first 5 sts, tks2tog, [tks in next 6 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across, Work return pass. 42 sts

Rows 28-29: Tks across, work return pass.

Row 30: Tks2tog, [tks in next 5 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across, tks in last 5 sts. Work return pass, 36 sts

Row 31:Tks in first 3 sts, tks2tog [tks in next 4 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across. Work return pass. 30 sts

Row 32: Tks2tog, [tks in next 3 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across, tks in last 3 sts. Work return pass. 24 sts.

Row 33: Tks in first st, tks2tog, [tks in next 2 sts, tks2tog] repeat [ ]  across. Work return pass. 18 sts

Row 34: Tks2tog, [tks in next st, tks2tog] repeat [ ] across. Work return pass. 12 sts

Row 35: Tks2tog across, tks in last st. Work return pass.  7 sts

Work a bind off row in tks, break yarn leaving long tail for sewing.

Thread tail onto needle, and go thru the front loops of each top stitch around, pulling tight to close up top.

Sew down side of hat. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Can’t wait for my hair to grow out 😛 thank goodness for hats!!

Wind Cowl, or, I’m a ninja!!

So Wyoming wind is quite terrible here. It can get well past -20 with wind chill at night…hell sometimes during the day. And with the bf working a delivery job out in the wind, he asked me to make him something to help stave off wind burn 😛 I figured a nice stretchy cowl was in order! (after several failed sizing attempts with balaclavas..urgh)

I look like a ninja! hehe. I used linked treble crochet to make it quickly but at the same time thick and less hole-y.

Hehehe! he looks like a looter from dead rising 2. 😛

Wind Cowl

K hook

WW Yarn-I used good ol red heart again. Maybe half a skein, though I’m pretty sure not even that much.

Stitches used:

Foundation double Crochet-good tutorial here:

Front Post/Back Post Double Crochet

Linked treble crochet-good tutorial here:

Working in foundation double crochet, do 45 foundation double crochet. (first ch 3 of foundation double crochet counts as first dc) Join to top of first double crochet.

Round 1: Ch 1, fpdc around first dc, bpdc around next. Repeat this around.  Join to ch 1. 45 sts

Round 2: Ch 3, yo & insert hook into 2nd ch, pull up a loop, yo & insert into 3rd ch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook into first dc, yo & pull up a loop, finish as normal treble crochet. This starts off your round of linked treble crochet stitches. Work rest of round in linked treble crochet. Join to top of ch 3.  45 sts.

Repeat round 2 seven more times.

Next row: Ch 2, hdc around in the back loops only. Join to top of first hdc.

You’re now going to break your yarn, leaving a nice long tail to sew. There will be gaps in between  where you joined the linked treble crochet rounds down to the post stitch ribbing. Thread your yarn tail onto a sewing needle and stitch sides together. I stitch similar to a mattress stitch, so I can have a reversible cowl.

See? Gaps. Bad for blocking wind.

After sewing up the gaps. Much better!

Either side can be the right side. If you like the looks of the dashes from the linked trebles, use that, or the other side is completely smooth. Your choice!

Weave in ends. Show off your ninja skills.

Circe Cardi

So I’ve become obsessive passionate about pattern writing lately. And rather ambitious too! I decided I wanted a cardigan, but the patterns I tried were working too slowly for me, or required too much thought on my part. Go laziness!

I wanted something that was simple, worked up quickly, and was comfortable. And didn’t take 4 skeins of yarn.  I used Red Heart mostly because it cooperates pretty easily for just about anything. I think I’ll try some Caron or Patons next time though.

I wanted a really simple-to-figure neck shaping, so I thought a circular yoke would be the way to go. It works awesomely! This pattern is really easy to adjust-in fact I plan to mod it to fit my bf, and turn it into a hoodie with a zipper. Just make your starting chain long enough to wrap loosely around your neck (or whoever is gonna wear it), and work in a similar pattern to what I’ve got here.  I want to make my lil girl one, and she’s 16 months so I know this style cardi should work well for any adjustments you’d like to make!

Also, if the ribbing is too wonky for you, add a different edging or leave it off if you want!

I haven’t gotten buttons on mine yet. I’ll be getting them later today, but I wanted to get this up here because I was excited and impatient. I’ll have my bf take a pic of me in it buttons and all later on.

Circe Cardi

K hook

I hook

2 skeins of Red Heart WW Yarn

Special Stitches-

Camel Stitch

Linked Double Crochet

When doing the first dc of a row, make it a linked dc using the starting 2-ch to close the gap. Insert the hook into the 2nd ch, pull up a loop, insert into the st, pull up a loop, yo & pull thru 2 loops, yo & pull thru 2 loops.

Always work first dc in 2nd st. The turning ch 2 always counts as first dc. Work last dc in top of turning ch 2.

I recommend doing a Russian Join to join a new skein of yarn. It makes for less knots and weaving in! A very good photo tutorial can be found at

Ch 52

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook in the back loop and in each ch across. 50 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Dc in 2nd st (ch 2 counts as first dc), dc to end. 50 sts

Row 3: Ch 2, turn. dc in 2nd st from hook, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat * to * around, dc in last 2 sts. 66 sts

Row 4: Ch 2, turn. *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around, dc in last 3 sts. 87 sts

Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 87 sts

Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 3 sts, 2dc in next st*  repeat *to* around to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. 108 sts.

Row 7: Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 108 sts.

Row 8: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around to last 3 sts, dc in last 3 sts. 129 sts

Row 9:  Ch 2, turn. Dc across. 129 sts

Row 10: Ch 2, turn. Dc in first 17 sts, skip 27 sts, join w dc to next st, dc in next 39 sts, skip 27 sts, join to next st w dc, dc in last 17 sts. Sleeves made!

Rows 11-29: Ch 2, turn. Dc in each st across. 75 sts (Do less rows if you want a shorter cardigan, more for a longer one)

Switch to an I hook

You’ll be working the edging along the front sides & neck now.

Row 1: Ch 2. Do not turn. Working along front right side, hdc up front side, placing 2 hdc in right top corner, along neckline, placing 2 hdc in left top corner and down to bottom of front left side (46 hdc up right side, 50 hdc along neckline, 46 hdc down left side). 142 sts

Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Work camel stitch (hdc in the back hump of previous hdc) back along row 1 to right side,  hdc in first 3 sts,* ch 2, skip 2 sts, hdc in next 4 sts* repeat *to* six times, hdc in last st. 142 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around in the back loop only in each st and ch around. 142 sts.

Next, you’ll attach the bottom ribbing. There is an excellent video online if you need a visual tutorial for this part:

Still using the I hook, you’ll start with a chain, work sc back down the chain, sl st in the next st, sl st in the next st, then sc in the back loop back down the sts you just made, skipping the 2 sl sts.

Ch 7

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (6 sts) Sl st in end of next row, sl st in end of next row.

Row 2: Skip 2 sl sts, sc in the back loop of each of the 6 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the back loop of each of the 6 sts, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 around bottom edge of cardigan.

Break yarn, fasten off.


Round 1: With K hook, join yarn at armpit and ch 2, dc 29 sts around arm. Join to first dc. 30 sts

Rounds 2-7: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc around,  join w sl st to top of ch 2. 30 sts

Round 8: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc to last 2 dc, dc2tog, join w sl st to top of ch 2. 28 sts

Rounds 9-10: Ch 2, dc around. 28 sts

Round 11: Repeat round 8. 26 sts

Rounds 12-15:Ch 2, dc around. 26 sts

Round 16: repeat round 8. 24 sts

Round 17: Ch 2, dc around. 24 sts

Round 18: Repeat round 8. 22 sts

Round 19: Ch 2, dc around. 22 sts

Round 20: repeat round 8. 20 sts

Round 21: Ch 2, dc around. 20 sts

Round 22: Repeat round 8. 18 sts.

Rounds 23-24: Ch 2, dc around. 18 sts

Switch to I hook

Now you’re going to work a ribbed cuff on the arm, as for the previously made ribbed edging.

Row 1: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (8 sc), sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Row 2: Skip 2 sl sts, sc in the back loop of sc sts. 8 sts

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in back loop of each st, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 around cuff to beginning, place last sl st in bottom of first part of cuff, skip 2 sl sts, sc in back loops of each sc, turn, do not ch, line up edges of cuff & sl st thru back loop of first st & first st of opposite edge, sl st down sts in this manner to sleeve, break yarn & fasten off.

Work other arm the same.

Sew buttons onto left front side.

Block if desired.

Comfy and cozy! Great for this awful arctic weather we’ve been having here lately! Did I mention it’s fast? Great weekend project!

Emerald, a French Press Cozy

Oh how happy I am to have the holidays over. Though, admittedly, I still have gifts to make. It wasn’t a good year for me in regards to time and preparation…

I did get a nice little French Press with a gift card I received. And let me tell you, it makes a damn good cup of coffee. If you haven’t tried one, I would highly recommend it!

It does, however, cool kind of quickly. So I figured a little cozy was in order! 🙂

I did it in Tunisian so it would be a little bit thicker. We’ll see how well it works-if nothing else I’ll make a bigger cozy tea kettle style to put over the whole thing!

As usual, I decided I should share this pattern with you. I’m still in a giving mood 🙂

Emerald French Press Cozy

H hook

WW yarn

Ch 20. Pick up back loops across chain.

Work Return Pass– yo, pull thru one loop, *yo, pull thru two loops* repeat *to* across.

Row 1- *skip first st, tss in next st, tss in skipped st* repeat *to* across to last st, tss in last st. Work return pass.

Close up on stitch detail. You’re making a cross/x stitch

Repeat row 1 until edges just touch around your French Press.

Next row (buttonhole row)- *skip first st, tss in next st, tss in skipped st* twice, [skip next st, tss in next st, tss in skipped st, pull loop last made thru one loop, yo]  Repeat *to* 3 times more, repeat [to] once  more, repeat *to* twice more, tss in last st. Work return pass.

Repeat row 1 once more.

Last row-work a bind off row, working in the stitch pattern *skip first st, tss in next st, pull thru one loop, tss in skipped st, pull thru one loop* across to last st, tss in last st, pull thru loop.

Finish off, weave in ends.

Sew buttons to correspond with buttonholes.

As I sit here watching snow fall, I’m thinking I need to make a mug cozy. I’ll probably just have hot drinks in my hands for the next few weeks!

Amethyst Hat

Note: I decided to add some wristwarmers to match. Their pattern will be up shortly. 🙂

I’m still on my hat kick, and have been playing around with cables lately, so of course one thing led to another and another hat was born!  Just a simple hat with a cable really, but since I rarely see crochet cabled hats I thought I’d post this one.  I made it a tad on the large side since I dislike hat hair 😛

Amethyst Hat

H hook

I Hook

WW Yarn-I used Red Heart

Using magic loop, 10 dc into loop. Join with sl st to first dc, ch 3.

Round 1: 2 dc in each st around. Join to top ch of first ch 3. Ch 3. 20 sts

Round 2: *1 dc in first st, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around. Ch 3. 30 sts

Round 3: *1 dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around. Ch 3. 40 sts

Round 4: *1 dc in first 3 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around. Ch 3. 50 sts

Round 5: *1 dc in first 4 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat *to* around. Ch 3. 60 sts

Round 6: dc around. Ch 3. 60 sts

Round 7: dc in first 30 sts, then start cable: fptrc around next 4 sts. Dc to end. Ch 3

Round 8: repeat round 7

Round 9: dc in first 30 sts, fptrc in 4th fptrc from last round (furthest from you) , then in the 3rd on, then the 2nd, then the 1st. You’re twisting the cable by doing this. Dc to end.

not the best picture of the cable…sorry :p

Round 10: dc in first 30sts, fptrc in first fptrc from last round, making sure to keep the twist. Fptrc around next 3 sts, dc to end.

Repeat rounds 7-10 once more.

another picture of the cable. Again, sorry for the quality.

Switch to H hook, repeat round 7 once more, only do fpdc instead of fptrc when you come upon the  cable.

Next round: *fpdc around first dc, bpdc around next dc* repeat *to* around.

Fasten off

Enjoy! ❤

Yummy Homemade Toothpaste

I finally got a good combination down for homemade toothpaste!

My bf had major complaints on my last few attempts…too baking  soda tasting every time.  Which, I had to agree..and it’s hard to get someone to switch to homemade toothpaste if it tastes like you’re chewing baking soda. Yuck!

I don’t have any pictures just yet..I’ll upload some after my next batch. I had someone ask me to make them some so probably after I get theirs made!

Yummy Homemade Toothpaste

these measurements are approximate..adjust to suit your tastes

1 tsp Dr Bronners Liquid Castile Soap (I used the peppermint kind)

1 Stevia Packet

3 tbsp coconut oil

1 tbsp aloe vera

3-4 tsp baking soda

Few drops of essential oil(I added 3 drops of spearmint. Mine was plenty minty with the peppermint soap!)

Few drops of Vit E oil (optional)

Splash of hot water



In a medium bowl, put splash of hot water and stevia together. Add coconut oil and aloe vera. Whisk together. Blend in the baking soda. Add the soap and whisk like crazy! It’ll froth up a bit and look just like commercial toothpaste!

Add the essential oils (if any) and then put in a jar or tube. I put mine in a little travel tube, but it was quite the pain to get it in there nicely..but then I have a nice lil tube of fresh toothpaste. Your choice.

It doesn’t froth up like regular toothpaste, but it also doesn’t taste like baking soda. Woo hoo! Big score there.  I’m wondering if there would be any merit to adding  Vitamin A or anything else to it. I’ll post any changes I make that I think are beneficial.


Free Knit Sponge Scrubbie Pattern

Knit sponge!

A knit sponge, perfect for pot scrubbing, counter scrubbing, or made large enough car scrubbing! 😀

This is more a general idea on how to make a sponge, so feel free to change what you like in the pattern!


Worsted weight kitchen cotton yarn (I used peaches n cream)

Size 7 needles

G crochet hook

Pattern is worked in two pieces, then crocheted together.


Side 1

CO 15 stitches. Work Stockinette stitch for desired length-I worked mine about a normal sponge length, little over 4 inches in length.


Side 2

CO 15 stitches. Work in Seed stitch (k1, p1) for same length as side 1. BO.

Note-if you slip the first stitch of every row, it makes for easier sewing/crocheting up!


Put sides together, with knit side of stockinette facing out. I just tucked my loose ends into the body of the sponge, but you can weave them in if you like. To put together, you’re going to work reverse single/crab stitch crochet around the edges. Join the yarn to one corner, and work all around. I found it wasn’t really necessary to add extra stitch into the corners, but if it helps even things out by all means go for it. If you’re not sure how to do reverse single, it can be kind of wonky at first but works well for a thick edge, which is nice on a sponge 🙂 You pretty much just work backwards with a single crochet stitch. There are youtube videos to help you out with it 🙂

When you get back to the start, slip a stitch to the first single crochet and weave in your end. voila! sponge!

I may try putting an i-cord edging around too… purl bee has a nice tutorial for this

Please post pics if you make some, or let me know if you have any questions! I’ll post this pattern to Ravelry as well 😀

*Please feel free to use this pattern to make sponges for yourself, your mama, your buddy, your charity and your crafting business. Any patterns I post to this site for free feel welcome to do the same. I realize that yarn is pricey, time is precious, and that sharing your handknits is something that many people want to do! Just show me some props for creation of the pattern, especially if you sell on etsy or other online store 😀 Thanks!